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Scarpa - Instinct VS - Climbing shoes tested

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Richard's profile picture
| Bromley

100% have found the reviews
by Richard helpful

My favourite shoes!

Shoes are very personal. The size, the shape, the fit, the style of climbing.

These are great for edging, toe and heel hooks - perfect for bouldering.

The shape fits my feet perfectly - you really need to try a pair on and see if it fits the shape of your feet and determine what size you need.

The rubber is strong and sturdy meaning it provides great support for edging, toe work and it has good grip although due to it's rather aggressive shape (it arches), I find that it's not great for trad/ slabs where you want to apply as much surface of the sole of shoes as possible but it's certainly not bad - it's... good. As the rubber is not as soft, it doesn't wear down as quick and stretches only a little (maybe a quarter size).

For me, it wraps my feet securely meaning I can pretty much use the top, sides, bottom and heel without the feet slipping inside the shoes giving me excellent control.

Definitely buying these again or the newer Instinct VS-Rs.

Tip for putting them on (as they are like tight slippers) - fold the heel down, and slip feet in then stick fingers into straps and pull strap (heel of shoes) back out and over your heel!

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good grip
    Good fit
    Robust
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