Scarpa - Instinct VS - Climbing shoes

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At a glance

% recommend
98% recommend
Customers say: Good fit
Customers say: Good fit
Strong pre-tensioning
Strong pre-tensioning
Greek
Greek
Microfibre
Microfibre
Vibram XS Edge
Vibram XS Edge
Wide foot
Wide foot
 g
460 g
Hook-and-loop closure
Hook-and-loop closure
Material information & features
Suitable for:
Level of experience:
expert
Recommended use:
sport climbing, indoor climbing, bouldering
Material type:
microfiber
Closure:
hook-and-loop closure
Sole:
Vibram XS Edge
Sole thickness:
3.5 mm
Hardness of sole:
hard
Last:
slightly asymmetrical
Downturn:
slight/medium
Heel tension:
strong
Terrain:
vertical, overhang
Weight:
460 g
Reference size:
pair size in UK 7
Foot shape:
greek
Fit:
wide foot / high volume
Extras:
pull tabs, toe-hook rubber, resoleable
Item No.:
301-0222
Product description

Bouldering and climbing shoes for the highest demands

The Instinct VS from Scarpa are true classics. These performance shoes are ideal for technically demanding bouldering and shorter sport climbing routes. Their speciality: foothold precision and hooks. Whether in the bouldering hall or out on the rocks, these are shoes for the toughest of projects.

Construction

The shoes boast an asymmetrical last and a medium downturn with an aggressive tip. As a result, they offer a fantastic balance of power transfer, flexibility and precision - perfect for versatile and demanding climbing and bouldering routes. Plus, the compact heel area in combination with the large, textured toe cap provides excellent hooking qualities. The microfibre and synthetic leather upper hugs your foot like a glove and is extremely durable. Meanwhile, the midsole, a Flexan insert, supports your feet especially well when standing on smaller footholds. The special rubber Vibram XS Edge sole is relatively stiff and is sure to impress with its excellent edging stability.

Fit

In addition, the shoes feature a rather narrow heel area and a relatively wide forefoot area with a moderate toe box, which makes them suitable for slightly wider feet with greater volume. Scarpa recommends the shoes especially for those with a Greek foot shape, i.e. with a long second toe.

Conclusion

The Instinct VS are powerful all-rounders for technically demanding bouldering and tough sport climbing. They offer enough stability and precision for even the smallest footholds and steepest overhangs. On the other hand, they are less suitable for multi-pitch climbs, as the tight fit can cause pain when worn for long periods of time.

The advantages at a glance:

  • Climbing and bouldering shoes for technically demanding projects
  • Ideal for sport climbing and bouldering
  • Moderately asymmetrical
  • Medium downturn
  • Strong pre-tensioning
  • Relatively stiff sole with excellent edging stability
  • Large toe cap
  • Also suitable for feet with a larger volume
Alpinetrek expert Hannes

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This is what other customers say:
Richard's profile picture

100% have found the reviews
by Richard helpful

My favourite shoes!

Shoes are very personal. The size, the shape, the fit, the style of climbing.

These are great for edging, toe and heel hooks - perfect for bouldering.

The shape fits my feet perfectly - you really need to try a pair on and see if it fits the shape of your feet and determine what size you need.

The rubber is strong and sturdy meaning it provides great support for edging, toe work and it has good grip although due to it's rather aggressive shape (it arches), I find that it's not great for trad/ slabs where you want to apply as much surface of the sole of shoes as possible but it's certainly not bad - it's... good. As the rubber is not as soft, it doesn't wear down as quick and stretches only a little (maybe a quarter size).

For me, it wraps my feet securely meaning I can pretty much use the top, sides, bottom and heel without the feet slipping inside the shoes giving me excellent control.

Definitely buying these again or the newer Instinct VS-Rs.

Tip for putting them on (as they are like tight slippers) - fold the heel down, and slip feet in then stick fingers into straps and pull strap (heel of shoes) back out and over your heel!

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good grip
    Good fit
    Robust
's profile picture

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Oliver's profile picture
Fantastic shoe for a heavier climber

Had these shoes for over a year now and they have never failed me. As a taller and heavier climber the shoe feels stiff enough under my weight while still giving me the softness needed to be extra precise.

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
's profile picture

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Victor's profile picture
Question from Victor
25.07.2021
Is this shoe vegan?
's profile picture

Oops! You forgot about your answer

Mischa (Community)'s profile picture
Mischa (Community) | Customer Service
26.07.2021 16, 49

Hi Victor, the shoe is constructed with microsuede but I'm not sure whether the supply chain of the glue is checked. Hope this helps.

This is what customers from around the world say:
Dominik's profile picture

92% have found the reviews
by Dominik helpful

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Versatile
    High edge stability
    Good grip
  • Disadvantages
    Not sturdy
Nicholas's profile picture

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Good grip
Peter's profile picture

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Good fit
    Robust
    Good grip
Fynn's profile picture

  • Advantages
    Good fit
    Versatile
    High edge stability
    Robust
    Good grip
Patrick's profile picture

  • Advantages
    Good grip
    Good fit
    Versatile
    High edge stability
Claudiu's profile picture
Perfect for Bouldering

Perfect for Bouldering
Very good grip

  • Advantages
    Robust
    Good fit
    Good grip
Andreas's profile picture

37% have found the reviews
by Andreas helpful

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Versatile
    Good fit
    Robust

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