4.51 of 5 starsScarpa - Instinct VS - Climbing shoes
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At a glance
Material information & features
- Suitable for:
- Men, Women
- Recommended use:
- bouldering, indoor climbing, sport climbing
- Level of experience:
- Expert
- Material type:
- microfiber
- Closure:
- hook-and-loop closure
- Sole:
- Vibram XS Edge
- Sole thickness:
- 3.5 mm
- Hardness of sole:
- hard
- Last:
- slightly asymmetrical
- Downturn:
- slight/medium
- Heel tension:
- strong
- Terrain:
- overhang, vertical
- Weight:
- 460 g
- Reference size:
- pair size in UK 7
- Foot shape:
- greek
- Fit:
- wide foot / high volume
- Extras:
- pull tabs, toe-hook rubber, resoleable
- Item No.:
- 301-0222
Product description
Bouldering and climbing shoes for the highest demands
The Instinct VS from Scarpa are true classics. These performance shoes are ideal for technically demanding bouldering and shorter sport climbing routes. Their speciality: foothold precision and hooks. Whether in the bouldering hall or out on the rocks, these are shoes for the toughest of projects.
Construction
The shoes boast an asymmetrical last and a medium downturn with an aggressive tip. As a result, they offer a fantastic balance of power transfer, flexibility and precision - perfect for versatile and demanding climbing and bouldering routes. Plus, the compact heel area in combination with the large, textured toe cap provides excellent hooking qualities. The microfibre and synthetic leather upper hugs your foot like a glove and is extremely durable. Meanwhile, the midsole, a Flexan insert, supports your feet especially well when standing on smaller footholds. The special rubber Vibram XS Edge sole is relatively stiff and is sure to impress with its excellent edging stability.
Fit
In addition, the shoes feature a rather narrow heel area and a relatively wide forefoot area with a moderate toe box, which makes them suitable for slightly wider feet with greater volume. Scarpa recommends the shoes especially for those with a Greek foot shape, i.e. with a long second toe.
Conclusion
The Instinct VS are powerful all-rounders for technically demanding bouldering and tough sport climbing. They offer enough stability and precision for even the smallest footholds and steepest overhangs. On the other hand, they are less suitable for multi-pitch climbs, as the tight fit can cause pain when worn for long periods of time.
The advantages at a glance:
- Climbing and bouldering shoes for technically demanding projects
- Ideal for sport climbing and bouldering
- Moderately asymmetrical
- Medium downturn
- Strong pre-tensioning
- Relatively stiff sole with excellent edging stability
- Large toe cap
- Also suitable for feet with a larger volume
Ask our experts
Alpinetrek expert Hannes
Reviews overview
Advantages
Disadvantages
Recommended use
What do you think about that?
This is what other customers say:
100% have found the reviews
by Richard helpful
Shoes are very personal. The size, the shape, the fit, the style of climbing.
These are great for edging, toe and heel hooks - perfect for bouldering.
The shape fits my feet perfectly - you really need to try a pair on and see if it fits the shape of your feet and determine what size you need.
The rubber is strong and sturdy meaning it provides great support for edging, toe work and it has good grip although due to it's rather aggressive shape (it arches), I find that it's not great for trad/ slabs where you want to apply as much surface of the sole of shoes as possible but it's certainly not bad - it's... good. As the rubber is not as soft, it doesn't wear down as quick and stretches only a little (maybe a quarter size).
For me, it wraps my feet securely meaning I can pretty much use the top, sides, bottom and heel without the feet slipping inside the shoes giving me excellent control.
Definitely buying these again or the newer Instinct VS-Rs.
Tip for putting them on (as they are like tight slippers) - fold the heel down, and slip feet in then stick fingers into straps and pull strap (heel of shoes) back out and over your heel!
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Advantages
Good grip Good fit Robust High edge stability -
Recommended use
Sport climbing Bouldering Indoor climbing
sticky as you like
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Advantages
Robust High edge stability Good fit Good grip -
Recommended use
All around
Had these shoes for over a year now and they have never failed me. As a taller and heavier climber the shoe feels stiff enough under my weight while still giving me the softness needed to be extra precise.
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Advantages
High edge stability -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing Sport climbing
Hi Victor, the shoe is constructed with microsuede but I'm not sure whether the supply chain of the glue is checked. Hope this helps.
88% have found the reviews
by Dominik helpful
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Advantages
Versatile High edge stability Good grip Good fit -
Disadvantages
Not sturdy -
Recommended use
Bouldering Sport climbing
-
Advantages
Good fit Good grip -
Recommended use
All around
-
Advantages
High edge stability Good grip Robust Good fit -
Recommended use
Bouldering
-
Advantages
Versatile High edge stability Robust Good grip Good fit -
Recommended use
Bouldering Sport climbing Indoor climbing
78% have found the reviews
by Sven helpful
-
Advantages
High edge stability Versatile Good grip Good fit -
Recommended use
Sport climbing Indoor climbing Bouldering
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Advantages
Good grip High edge stability Versatile Good fit -
Recommended use
Bouldering
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