4.53 of 5 stars
La Sportiva - Otaki - Climbing shoes tested
Do you own this product? Have you tested it out?
Other customers will be happy to read your review – share what you know.
Reviews overview
Disadvantages
What do you think about that?
This is what other customers say:
It is really a great shoe. It edges amazingly in the smallest if holds and smears great too. I like the slightly wider fit that you can snug with the easy to use Velcro
I use to use Miura lace up and I think they are at par on technical climbs while providing better support with the p3
-
- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Versatile
- Good grip
- Good fit
-
- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
- All around
I've been using these for a few weeks now and i'm very happy with them. performance is as you'd expect from a high end la sportiva shoe. shoe has a mid/stiff rubber, edges excellently and the heel is super stable for heel hooking. shoe feels really secure. i bought two sizes down from my street size, they are tight and snug but comfortable enough for a two hour bouldering session with a break for coffee after them breaking them in.
if you want a high performance fit for hard bouldering i would maybe go 2 1/2 - 3 sizes down. for intermediate climbers like me i would suggest 2 - 1 1/2 sizes down and for people maybe buying their first climbing shoes i would go 1 size down.
-
- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Good fit
- Good grip
- Robust
-
- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Sport climbing
The shoes themselves stick well, however have next to no give. I was only using for bouldering and indoor lead, stuck it out for 2 months 3-4 times a week and then had to change as it was too painful. I ended up getting Skwama's instead which are much more forgiving. I went down 1.5 uk sizes as was recommended with both.
-
- Advantages
- Robust
- High edge stability
-
- Disadvantages
- Not comfortable
-
- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Indoor climbing
Time: How long were you using the product?
They lasted almost 10 months (split use with other shoes) until I burn't through the rubber on the toes.
Recommended use: What did you use the product for exactly?
Predominantly bouldering
Positive: What do you like most about the product?
The shoes, abet overly snug to begin with, mould nicely to the shape of your foot, combined with the heal having the same suction as the solutions, makes the shoe feel really solid, to the point where you don't have to 'think' so hard about your feet.
Negative: What didn't you like about the product?
The stiffness won't be for everyone. Slab can be a bit of challenge.
-
- Advantages
- Versatile
- High edge stability
- Good fit
- Robust
I'm a Solutions die hard but thought I'd try a pair of the Otaki for a new indoor shoe. Very impressed and have swapped these to my primary outdoor shoe.
-
- Advantages
- Versatile
- Good grip
- Good fit
-
- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
- Indoor climbing
- All around
- Bouldering
I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.
-
- Advantages
- Good fit
-
- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
I have climbed with 7 different climbing shoes and have tried on many many more. I have wide feed with relatively small heels, so my most common issue is that the shoe either has a saggy heel, or is too narrow. This is probably the best shoe I have had so far - it is a bit stiff, and normally I prefer softer shoes, but despite that, this shoe seems to perform amazingly on all types of rock and types of climbing (overhang/vertical), as well as indoors both on roped climbs and boulder problems. It does the job for me on slabs as well, but I don't climb many "hardcore" super smeary slabs, and I would guess it might not be very good for that.
I usually wear EU43, and size 41.5 of this shoe fits me perfectly(took a fairly long time to break in though).
I'll have it re-soled soon and am considering getting a second pair just so I have another while the original is being repaired.
One thing to keep in mind that it is a performance shoe that is certainly not comfortable to walk in / wear for a long time, so I would not recommend it on long multi-pitches.
-
- Advantages
- Good fit
- Versatile
- High edge stability
-
- Recommended use
- All around
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
- Bouldering
There are 153 more threads!