4.51 of 5 stars
This is either an older model or we can or will no longer reorder this product from the manufacturer.
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Edelrid - Ohm - Brake assistant
At a glance
Material information & features
- Recommended use:
- indoor climbing, sport climbing
- Other material information:
- made in Germany
- Suitable ropes:
- 8.9 mm - 11 mm, single ropes
- Weight:
- 450 g
- Weight reference:
- per piece
- Includes:
- incl. non-locking carabiner
- Misc:
- minimum weight of the belayer: 40 kg
- Note:
- Belay device required
- Item No.:
- 318-0238
Product description
A rope team with a big weight difference?
The 2nd generation Ohm from Edelrid is a device that allows you to belay much heavier people when lead climbing. The Ohm is hooked into the first bolt of the safety chain with the rope inserted. It acts as an assisted-braking resistor. The Ohm does not increase friction as the rope passes through the lead, nor does it have a negative effect on the rope payout. The braking performance of the device is only activated in the event of a fall, helping the belayer to slow a fall by someone up to twice their weight.
Additional safety thanks to the improved braking effect
The Ohm does not stop the rope abruptly, but slows down its speed so that the fall can be absorbed dynamically by the belayer - it therefore increases the friction in the safety chain, regardless of the belay device used. As a result, the belayer needs to apply much less manual force to the brake rope and is not pulled upwards or against the wall in an uncontrolled manner.
The solution for weight differences in the climbing teams
The Ohm increases the braking power and is primarily designed for use in gyms and rock climbing. The device acts as a braking force booster, allowing unevenly weighted partners to reach the limit of their fall without worrying that the belayer will not be able to hold them or that they will be pulled up the wall.
Note on weight differences when climbing
The German Alpine Association (DAV) recommends that the climber should weigh no more than 10 kg more than the belayer (e.g. belayer 60 kg, climber maximum 70 kg). If the climber is more than 10 kg heavier than the belayer, weight or friction-enhancing measures such as the use of the Ohm are recommended.
With the Ohm, the recommended total weight difference between climber and belayer should be between 10 and 40 kg. Edelrid specifies a minimum belayer weight of 40 kg.
The advantages at a glance:
- Enables significantly heavier people to be belayed when leading
- Braking performance only kicks in in the event of a fall
- Normal climbing and belaying is not restricted
Ask our experts
Alpinetrek expert Max
Reviews overview
Advantages
Disadvantages
Recommended use
What do you think about that?
This is what other customers say:
Allows my child who is only just over half my weight to lead belay me with ease, including on big falls. Don't understand how they work but they're magic.
Only downside is that it can accidentally engage if you pull rope through fast, but a quick flick from the belayer resolves.
--- review of an older model ---
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Advantages
Works like magic -
Recommended use
Lead belaying someone heavier
Simply put the Ohm makes the climber artificially lighter by introducing friction into the system when they fall so less upward force is felt by the belay and they don't get pulled up to the first clip.
2 improvements are: It could be made clearer which side should face out/up. There are markings but I don't like having to check closely while im clipping. It should be made more obvious. I also think they could improve the design so it is slightly less grabby when you pull rope through quickly.
--- review of an older model ---
-
Advantages
Comfortable Easy to use -
Disadvantages
Poor Markings -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing Belay Weigh Disparity Lead/Sport Climbing
You have to be really calm during the lead beacuse if you pull the rope fast to clip, the rope it will get stuck, similar to a bad belayer.
Its not the belayr fault, its how the system work. Well,if you are pulling the slow, maybe its the belayer fault.
--- review of an older model ---
-
Advantages
Finish Easy to use Price / performance Quick to open -
Disadvantages
Heavy -
Recommended use
Beginner Indoor climbing Ice climbing All around Sport climbing Alpine climbing Speleology Big wall
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Advantages
Price / performance Easy to use Quick to open Versatile in its use Finish -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing All around Speleology Alpine climbing Sport climbing Beginner
I am able to belay a man who is 23 kg heavier than me.
--- review of an older model ---
-
Disadvantages
Heavy -
Recommended use
Beginner Indoor climbing Sport climbing
84% have found the reviews
by Remigi helpful
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Advantages
Quick to open Easy to use Finish -
Disadvantages
Heavy -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing Ice climbing
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Advantages
Easy to use Quick to open -
Recommended use
Alpine climbing Indoor climbing Sport climbing
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Advantages
Easy to use -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing Sport climbing
I bought this Ohm to be able to climb with my girlfriend, we have around 50 kg weight difference which is much more easy to handle with Ohm! I know a diet would help better but it would be good for the future as well!!
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Advantages
Quick to open Easy to use Finish -
Disadvantages
Heavy -
Recommended use
All around Beginner Indoor climbing
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