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Arc'teryx - Alpha SV Jacket - Waterproof jacket tested

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This is what other customers say:
Andrei's profile picture
| Kenton

25% have found the reviews
by Andrei helpful

Best waterproof jacket I have ever owned

I've switched from the Alpha AR to the Alpha SV because the AR just didn't seem durable enough to withstand the abuse of climbing.

I haven't used the SV for long enough to properly assess it's durability, but the fabric feels like I've made the right choice: thick (100 denier GTX Pro is, to my knowledge, among the thickest/most durable you can buy) and with a rubbery feel that just makes the jacket feel bombproof.

So far, I have used the jacket on a couple of ice climbing trips, as well as on a couple of days of winter hiking.

It has performed very well so far.

Yes, the high denier fabric makes it somewhat less breathable/more sweaty when working hard uphill, but when the wind is howling and the rain is pouring down. you'll be glad that you have the SV to retreat into. Plus, with the right layering system (I currently use the Mountain Equipment Redline long sleeve baselayer under a Polartec 100 Micro Fleece, with the SV on top), you don't get that clammy feel that plague hard shells.

So, the Arcteryx Alpha SV is very good at keeping the elements out, however, there are a couple of negative points to make :

- the hood is absolutely humongous: it's way too big and it's pretty much impossible to cinch it down tight enough when you're not wearing a helmet, so in high winds you'll get a lot of flapping
- the zipper is only single way: I understand that most users would put their hard shell on at the beginning of the day (so under their harnesses), but in the UK it's not uncommon for the weather to suddenly turn from blue skies to rain, so it would be nice if you could throw the jacket over your harness and still be able to belay

Other than those two points, I'm happy that I've switched to the Alpha SV and it will be my hard shell of choice for the foreseeable future

Product images by Andrei
  • Advantages
    Waterproof
    Windproof
    Breathable
    Robust
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john's profile picture
| darwen

66% have found the reviews
by john helpful

Best jacket ever !

Best jacket I've worn; cannot believe it has taken me so long to purchase one. Won't buy anything else.

  • Advantages
    Good details
    Waterproof
    Windproof
    Price/performance
    Robust
    Lightweight
    Good cut
    Venting
    Breathable
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This is what customers from around the world say:
Achim's profile picture
| Ellwangen

  • Advantages
    Lightweight
    Windproof
    Breathable
    Good details
    Robust
    Venting
    Good cut
    Waterproof
Florian's profile picture
| Hess. Oldendorf

  • Advantages
    Robust
    Breathable
    Waterproof
    Windproof
    Lightweight
    Good cut
Christoph's profile picture
| Schmallenberg

  • Advantages
    Waterproof
    Windproof
    Breathable
    Lightweight
Lutz's profile picture
| Glashütte

  • Advantages
    Waterproof
    Good cut
    Robust
Joachim's profile picture
| Hannover

20% have found the reviews
by Joachim helpful

  • Advantages
    Breathable
    Windproof
    Robust
    Waterproof
    Lightweight
Thomas's profile picture
| Schwarzenbruck

50% have found the reviews
by Thomas helpful

The thread was edited on 24.01.17

  • Advantages
    Robust
    Venting
    Breathable
    Waterproof
    Windproof
    Good details
    Good cut
Jean-Claude's profile picture
| Weil am Rhein

25% have found the reviews
by Jean-Claude helpful

  • Advantages
    Windproof
    Good cut
    Lightweight
    Good details
    Robust
    Breathable
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