4.51 of 5 stars
La Sportiva - Genius - Climbing shoes tested
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Reviews overview
Disadvantages
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This is what other customers say:
I didn't think it would be possible, but these actually beat my solutions! I've used solutions for the past year and a half now and didn't think anything could perform better, but these, straight out the box were better! The no edge actually works amazingly. On rounded micro foot holds it sticks and feels far more secure than an edge sitting on the top of the hold, it really molds round it.
I sized these a half size above my solutions (I'm a 42, wear my solutions in a 39 and well, as you can probably figure out, got my Genius' in 39.5)
Definitely recommend these!
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- Advantages
- Good grip
- Robust
- Versatile
- Good fit
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- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
I just got a pair of genius boots , they are a high end climbing shoe by far the best l have ever owned.lt takes a small amount to get used to the more aggressive shape and l advise anyone buying these to be brave and go as small in size as you can perhaps a half size lower than your smallest so far to get the very best fit . There is no looseness to the shoe and feels comfortable, not what l have been used to , my first outing with this shoe the weather was damp and it was supposed to be a rest day but l took with me anyway, l had no chalk or mats with me on that day as l wasn't intending to climb . Tempted by some dryish rock l put them on and soon found new power but not in my arms , instead my feet were doing most of the work , l could trust them to hold were other shoes maybe never had , .to sum it up l these to test in bad conditions no chalk l am a mid range climber just pushing into the high end l can now say l am a more consistent high end climber with the genius of these shoes they live up to all expectations worth the cost and as l have said before , a real game changer 7a here l am
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- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Versatile
- Good fit
- Good grip
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- Recommended use
- All around
- Sport climbing
I have “roman” shaped high volume and wide feet and this shoe fits perfectly in every way so don’t be afraid of these shoes not fitting well if you have similar foot shape!
I was afraid to size down beacuse of my foot shape so I sized down one size after reading some reviews that the Geniuses fit smaller than other La sportiva shoes but I should have sized another half to one size down from street shoes (so 1.5 to 2 sizes down total) because while it is snug as it is, it could be more snug around the toebox for more of a “max performance” fit. Almost zero dead space in the heels though.
You can tighten the laces as you see fit to mold the shoes around your feet. They are super comfortable and soft straight out of the box, although I experience a little pressure at the big toe knucle but I’m sure that will go away as I continue to break them in.
I had the ocun ozone plus before this which had waay too much dead space in the heel.
So far the Geniuses have been great on slabs and ok on edges, but I don’t think they are /as/ sensitive as the no-edge design would have you believe. My ozones were better at edging and more sensitive in that regard, but in every other way the Geniuses have performed better so far. (I climb V7-V8 indoors for reference)
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- Advantages
- Comfortable
- Good grip
- Versatile
- High edge stability
- Good fit
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- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Indoor climbing
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