La Sportiva - Genius - Climbing shoes tested

I have “roman” shaped high volume and wide feet and this shoe fits perfectly in every way so don’t be afraid of these shoes not fitting well if you have similar foot shape!

I was afraid to size down beacuse of my foot shape so I sized down one size after reading some reviews that the Geniuses fit smaller than other La sportiva shoes but I should have sized another half to one size down from street shoes (so 1.5 to 2 sizes down total) because while it is snug as it is, it could be more snug around the toebox for more of a “max performance” fit. Almost zero dead space in the heels though.

You can tighten the laces as you see fit to mold the shoes around your feet. They are super comfortable and soft straight out of the box, although I experience a little pressure at the big toe knucle but I’m sure that will go away as I continue to break them in.

I had the ocun ozone plus before this which had waay too much dead space in the heel.
So far the Geniuses have been great on slabs and ok on edges, but I don’t think they are /as/ sensitive as the no-edge design would have you believe. My ozones were better at edging and more sensitive in that regard, but in every other way the Geniuses have performed better so far. (I climb V7-V8 indoors for reference)