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This is what customers from around the world say:
I wanted to share an accident involving a Climbing Technology Nimble quickdraw, specifically the version using the “Fixbar” rubber retainer, in case it is useful for others or prompts discussion around this failure mode.
I was belaying while my partner was leading. He clipped the first two bolts, then moved up to the third bolt, which was somewhat run out from the second. The second bolt was extended, so the spacing between protection points was effectively longer.
After clipping the third bolt, he climbed slightly above it and asked for tension (“take”). I weighted the rope while he was above the bolt, which pulled the quickdraw upward toward his harness. The draw inverted and remained in an upward-loaded position due to the fixbar not allowing the carabiner to pivot on the dogbone.
At this point, the dogbone appears to have become trapped against the bolt hanger due to the rigid rubber “Fixbar” retainer that holds the rope-end carabiner orientation. When my partner then weighted the rope fully, the dogbone loaded across the gate/carabiner assembly instead of along the major axis.
The dogbone forced its way through the gate of the carabiner and detached completely, resulting in a ground fall.
Fortunately, the injuries were not catastrophic, but it was a very serious incident.
I contacted Climbing Technology afterward and discussed the incident with their product manager, who told me this configuration/use was considered incorrect. However, from my perspective, the scenario did not feel especially exotic or improbable:
leader above the bolt
belayer taking tension
quickdraw inverting upward
weighting the rope while the draw remains inverted
I am not claiming the product is universally unsafe, but I do think this specific failure mode deserves discussion because the retainer appears capable of preventing the draw from naturally reorienting under load.
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Disadvantages
Doesn't close properly
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Advantages
Excellent handling Ergonomic carabiner shape -
Recommended use
All around Big wall Sport climbing
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Advantages
Excellent handling Lightweight Ergonomic carabiner shape Price / performance Quick to open -
Recommended use
Sport climbing All around
83% have found the reviews
by Hannes helpful
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Advantages
Ergonomic carabiner shape Excellent handling Quick to open Lightweight -
Recommended use
Sport climbing Ultra-light
66% have found the reviews
by Max helpful
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Advantages
Ergonomic carabiner shape Quick to open Excellent handling -
Disadvantages
Heavy -
Recommended use
Sport climbing
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Advantages
Ergonomic carabiner shape Excellent handling -
Recommended use
Sport climbing
61% have found the reviews
by Klingler helpful
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Advantages
Price / performance Quick to open Excellent handling Ergonomic carabiner shape
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Advantages
Price / performance Excellent handling Quick to open Lightweight Ergonomic carabiner shape
66% have found the reviews
by Daniel helpful
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Advantages
Ergonomic carabiner shape Lightweight Price / performance Quick to open Excellent handling
37% have found the reviews
by Laura helpful
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Advantages
Quick to open Excellent handling -
Recommended use
Sport climbing