La Sportiva - Otaki - Climbing shoes

It is really a great shoe. It edges amazingly in the smallest if holds and smears great too. I like the slightly wider fit that you can snug with the easy to use Velcro

I use to use Miura lace up and I think they are at par on technical climbs while providing better support with the p3

I've been using these for a few weeks now and i'm very happy with them. performance is as you'd expect from a high end la sportiva shoe. shoe has a mid/stiff rubber, edges excellently and the heel is super stable for heel hooking. shoe feels really secure. i bought two sizes down from my street size, they are tight and snug but comfortable enough for a two hour bouldering session with a break for coffee after them breaking them in.

if you want a high performance fit for hard bouldering i would maybe go 2 1/2 - 3 sizes down. for intermediate climbers like me i would suggest 2 - 1 1/2 sizes down and for people maybe buying their first climbing shoes i would go 1 size down.

The shoes themselves stick well, however have next to no give. I was only using for bouldering and indoor lead, stuck it out for 2 months 3-4 times a week and then had to change as it was too painful. I ended up getting Skwama's instead which are much more forgiving. I went down 1.5 uk sizes as was recommended with both.

Time: How long were you using the product?
They lasted almost 10 months (split use with other shoes) until I burn't through the rubber on the toes.

Recommended use: What did you use the product for exactly?
Predominantly bouldering

Positive: What do you like most about the product?
The shoes, abet overly snug to begin with, mould nicely to the shape of your foot, combined with the heal having the same suction as the solutions, makes the shoe feel really solid, to the point where you don't have to 'think' so hard about your feet.

Negative: What didn't you like about the product?
The stiffness won't be for everyone. Slab can be a bit of challenge.

I'm a Solutions die hard but thought I'd try a pair of the Otaki for a new indoor shoe. Very impressed and have swapped these to my primary outdoor shoe.

I found this pair of shoes too slippery on limestone. I have been working on a project with a very used pair of shoes (wild climb pantera soft) and on my final attempts, I tried this otaki. They proved to be too slippery. Finally, I get back to WC pantera soft and I managed to send my project despite of been almost broken on the edge. Very disappointed about otaki.