Tests & reviews

Five Ten - Aleon - Climbing shoes tested

Praise vs. Criticism

Aaron

29.11.2020

I would definitely recommend this shoe.

I used the Aleon for 3~6 months before wearing through.
The shoe is good for bouldering and small edges/smearing.

Excels in competition style climbing.

Advantages
High edge stability
Good fit
Good grip
good fit of heel
Disadvantages
poor for toe hooks
soft
VS

Stephen

23.01.2024

Good shoe, but don't last long!

I had my original five ten Niad VCS shoes for over a year, they finally gave up and I thought I woudl try something new.. But these have lasted only a few months, I climb 2 times a week at most!!! Bonkers.

Not happy with the durability on these...

Would recommend a different shoe!

Advantages
Good grip
High edge stability
Disadvantages
Long break-in period
Uncomfortable
Not long lasting

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This is what customers from around the world say:

Benny
20.10.2021

33% have found the reviews
by Benny helpful

The thread was edited on 24.10.21

  • Advantages
    Robust
    Versatile
    Good grip
    High edge stability
    Good fit
Andrew
12.01.2024
Good shoe, lacks longevity

These shoes run small. I bought 0.5 of a size above my street shoe and they fit very tight out of the box. Took around 6 sessions to break in. They were particularly tight in the heal region, with quite a bit of space in the toe box. After breaking them in they fit very well for a few weeks. However, the heel region seemed to stretch a lot more than the rest of the shoe, becoming a little bit loose when heel hooking.

I exclusively used these shoes for bouldering in a gym. They. performed very well, especially on small edges and overhangs.

Major downside is that they are not very durable. The rubber on the toe box began to split after 2.5 months, climbing 3-4 times per week. This may not be as much of an issue for more experienced climbers with quieter feet. However, given the price point, I expected they would hold up for a little longer, especially given that they were only used indoors.

Another issue I encountered was following washing. I hand washed the shoes in lukewarm water and afterwards, the pigment in the dye began to run, staining my feet.

Overall would give them a 6/10.

Fit: 6/10
Performance: 9/10
Longevity: 3/10

  • Advantages
    Versatile
    High edge stability
    Robust
    Good grip
Nina
15.11.2023

  • Advantages
    High edge stability
    Robust
    Good grip
Egli
28.08.2023

  • Advantages
    Robust
    Good fit
    High edge stability
    Good grip