4.44 of 5 stars
Five Ten - Aleon - Climbing shoes tested
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Reviews overview
Advantages
Disadvantages
Recommended use
Praise vs. Criticism
Aaron
29.11.2020I would definitely recommend this shoe.
I used the Aleon for 3~6 months before wearing through.
The shoe is good for bouldering and small edges/smearing.
Excels in competition style climbing.
- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Good fit
- Good grip
- good fit of heel
- Disadvantages
- poor for toe hooks
- soft
- Recommended use
- Bouldering
Stephen
23.01.2024Good shoe, but don't last long!
I had my original five ten Niad VCS shoes for over a year, they finally gave up and I thought I woudl try something new.. But these have lasted only a few months, I climb 2 times a week at most!!! Bonkers.
Not happy with the durability on these...
Would recommend a different shoe!
- Advantages
- Good grip
- High edge stability
- Disadvantages
- Long break-in period
- Uncomfortable
- Not long lasting
- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Sport climbing
What do you think about that?
This is what other customers say:
I had my original five ten Niad VCS shoes for over a year, they finally gave up and I thought I woudl try something new.. But these have lasted only a few months, I climb 2 times a week at most!!! Bonkers.
Not happy with the durability on these...
Would recommend a different shoe!
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Advantages
Good grip High edge stability -
Disadvantages
Long break-in period Uncomfortable Not long lasting -
Recommended use
Bouldering Sport climbing
I used the Aleon for 3~6 months before wearing through.
The shoe is good for bouldering and small edges/smearing.
Excels in competition style climbing.
-
Advantages
High edge stability Good fit Good grip good fit of heel -
Disadvantages
poor for toe hooks soft -
Recommended use
Bouldering
First Shoe - Bought Size 12 - Normal Shoe size 11
The shoe overall took a while to break in, even after a few sessions and warm showers to make them fit to my feet. Even after multiple sessions straps had to be on the front velcro to prevent air pocket under feet when loosely strapped on, proceeding in farting sound which was annoying.
After 4-5 months small hole appeared on right shoe at the toe. I've seen pictures of other climbers with similar problem. I am a beginner, only climbed for 8 months, level ranging around 6b to 7a. Hole may of came from me booting the wall a few times on accident so could be either me or the shoes fault. However, my friends who i started climbing with, their shoes have lasted atleast a couple months longer than my aleons so take that as you will.
Overall, quite happy with the shoe, was somewhat comfortable once 'broken in', performed well however, was a shame that they didn't last that long.
Again I am a beginner, so take my advice with a grain of salt, moving onto skwama's next, hope this helps :)
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After 1/2 months climbing with the hole in right shoe
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Advantages
High edge stability Good grip Cool Aesthetic -
Disadvantages
Not comfortable Suited Fit Wears Down Quick -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing Sport climbing Bouldering
69% have found the reviews
by Florian helpful
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Advantages
High edge stability Good fit Good grip -
Recommended use
Sport climbing
100% have found the reviews
by Felix helpful
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Advantages
High edge stability Good fit Good grip -
Disadvantages
Not comfortable -
Recommended use
Bouldering
Excellent shoe, amazing build, very sensitive,
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Advantages
Good fit Good grip High edge stability -
Disadvantages
Not sturdy -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing Sport climbing Bouldering
32% have found the reviews
by Michael helpful
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Advantages
Good grip Good fit
45% have found the reviews
by Max helpful
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Disadvantages
Not comfortable Not adjustable
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Advantages
Good grip Good fit -
Recommended use
Bouldering
33% have found the reviews
by Benny helpful
The thread was edited on 24.10.21
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Advantages
Robust Versatile Good grip High edge stability Good fit -
Recommended use
Beginner
36% have found the reviews
by Tobias helpful
The thread was edited on 06.10.19
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Disadvantages
Not comfortable
These shoes run small. I bought 0.5 of a size above my street shoe and they fit very tight out of the box. Took around 6 sessions to break in. They were particularly tight in the heal region, with quite a bit of space in the toe box. After breaking them in they fit very well for a few weeks. However, the heel region seemed to stretch a lot more than the rest of the shoe, becoming a little bit loose when heel hooking.
I exclusively used these shoes for bouldering in a gym. They. performed very well, especially on small edges and overhangs.
Major downside is that they are not very durable. The rubber on the toe box began to split after 2.5 months, climbing 3-4 times per week. This may not be as much of an issue for more experienced climbers with quieter feet. However, given the price point, I expected they would hold up for a little longer, especially given that they were only used indoors.
Another issue I encountered was following washing. I hand washed the shoes in lukewarm water and afterwards, the pigment in the dye began to run, staining my feet.
Overall would give them a 6/10.
Fit: 6/10
Performance: 9/10
Longevity: 3/10
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Advantages
Versatile High edge stability Robust Good grip -
Recommended use
Bouldering Indoor climbing Sport climbing
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Advantages
Versatile Good grip -
Disadvantages
Not comfortable -
Recommended use
Bouldering Indoor climbing
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Advantages
High edge stability Robust Good grip -
Recommended use
Bouldering Indoor climbing Sport climbing
66% have found the reviews
by Matthias helpful
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Advantages
High edge stability Good grip -
Recommended use
Sport climbing
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Advantages
Robust Good fit High edge stability Good grip -
Recommended use
Indoor climbing Bouldering
I like the snug fit that provides
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Advantages
Good fit -
Recommended use
Bouldering
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Advantages
High edge stability Good grip -
Disadvantages
Not comfortable -
Recommended use
Bouldering Indoor climbing Sport climbing
Hi Stephen,
sorry that you have a problem with your product.
Please contact [email protected] again with a few photos and your order number and we'll be happy to take a look at it.
Best regards,
Marco