Nu kör vi! – Long-distance hikes in Sweden

Only just over 10 million people live in Sweden in an area of around 450,000 km². (Compare this with Germany where it’s almost 84 million inhabitants in an area of merely 360,000 km²).

Of these 10 million people, more than half live in the two metropolitan areas of Stockholm and Gothenburg as well as in the bigger cities in Southern Sweden. This means that the centre and the north of Sweden are so sparsely populated that there are extensive areas where statistics don’t even register a single inhabitant per km².

In this blog, I’d like to show you some options for hikes in Sweden in almost endless, pristine nature. The trekking and hiking trails in Sweden boast pure wilderness – with all its beauty, challenges and risks, of course.

Before we get to the well-known and popular long-distance hikes, such as Kungsleden, Skåneleden or Sörmlandsleden (the Swedish “led” means “trail” or “path”), I’d like to point out a few general tips and notices to be borne in mind when hillwalking in Sweden.

Brief checklist for longer hikes in Sweden:

Route planning

Sweden features an extensive network of hillwalking trails and long-distance hiking trails that can often be combined to create the best hikes in Sweden. Sweden also has a great number of lakes, rivers and marshes as well as terrain that is not readily accessible. It’s therefore advisable to use this infrastructure for your own route planning.

Those who feel that the hikes in the north of Sweden are too well signposted and structured (…usually they’re not!…) hopefully have the required experience to be able to traverse the wilderness completely independently.

The extensive network of hiking trails and appropriate infrastructure of accommodation and supply options provides all other hikers with an almost unlimited choice of possibilities for unforgettable moments in Nordic nature.

From Fjäll in the north and the great lakes to the mountainous region towards Norway or the Baltic Sea beaches in the south and east.

The same applies to planning long-distance hikes in Sweden as elsewhere: a good mixture of GPS device, printed walking map and a compass, of course, will help you to find the right way, even in thick fog or if signposts are unclear.

Climate and seasons for Sweden trekking

There is no wrong time of the year for going long-distance hiking. Some circumstances (such as snow up to the hip or -20 °C) may, however, make trekking in Sweden more strenuous or uncomfortable.

So when planning long-distance hikes in Sweden, please bear the following factors in mind:

• The temperature: It’s generally warmer between May and September. The summer months are July and August.
• During the summer, the Swedes are on summer holidays as well, of course, and they enjoy staying in their own country.
• The further north you go in Sweden, the more relevant the subject of “the midnight sun” will be. Between the end of May and the end of July, the sun no longer sets in the Arctic Circle. A “night hike” by daylight is therefore possible at any time, which will be a real challenge for your biorhythm. In turn, when you’re planning a hike in winter in the far north, the days will be short and dark.
• Climate: Sweden’s altitude ranges from sea-level to a maximum of 2,111 m (Kebnekaise), with the country extending from the 55th to the 69th degree of latitude. The “climate” therefore varies widely in Sweden. Very warm summer days on the southern Baltic Sea coast are just as much a part of Sweden as icy winter storms in the North East. However, the summer months are quite mild everywhere and perfectly suited for hillwalking.
• Sweden features numerous rivers, lakes and marshlands. Unfortunately, this increases the number of mosquitoes. Mosquitoes and blackflies are wreaking havoc in the northern parts of the country in particular. Mosquito protection (bite-proof outdoor clothing, spray with a high DEET content) is therefore an absolute must. Increasing numbers of ticks have also been sighted in the warmer south of Sweden.
• In addition to mosquitoes and ticks, there are a few other animals you should look out for when trekking. Of course, there are bees, wasps and hornets, a few poisonous snakes (the European adder), wild bores and some bears (around 3,000) as well as wolves – but by far the most dangerous animal (for careless people) is the elk!

Spending the night on a long-distance hike

When on long-distance hikes in Sweden away from larger settlements, you have several options for spending the night. A tarp, a tent or a hammock are practically indispensable on long hill walks in Sweden.

There are some open shelters along hiking trails in Sweden where hikers can spend the night free of charge. Generally, these feature a fire place and fresh water nearby. Dry fire wood is often provided, which hikers then replenish, ready for the next visitor.

Mountain huts (Fjällstuga), rented out by the Swedish Hiking Association (STF) or privately in the summer months, offer even more comfort. Similar in concept to a youth hostel, the STF hikers’ homes, guests houses and hostels are usually equipped with practical self-catering kitchens.

In addition, more major departure and destination points as well as hubs on well-known Fjäll hiking trails feature what is known as Fjäll stations. These offer hotel-standard rooms and the additional option to stock up on supplies away from supermarkets or shops.

From as few as four stays, STF membership is worth it. German DJH membership is also accepted.

Wild camping in Sweden

The “Freedom to Roam” right (Allemansrätten) is often mentioned but sometimes misunderstood in Scandinavia (and especially in Sweden). This right allows Swedish people and tourists from abroad the basic freedom of roaming independently in nature.

Here’s a brief summary of the 11 ideas of the “Freedom to Roam” right:

1. In general, you’re allowed to hill walk anywhere in nature, cycle, ski or ride a horse. But not in direct proximity to houses (min. distance of 200 m).
2. You’re allowed to go “wild” camping for one night, as long as the area is not used for agriculture, and not in direct proximity to a house.
3. Caravans and mobile homes must be parked in rest areas or right next to the road when spending the night (max. 24 h). Do not take them into the open countryside!
4. Do not leave rubbish in the great outdoors. (None whatsoever!)
5. Generally, no motor vehicles are allowed in the open countryside (though the Swedes still use their quad bikes).
6. If you’re travelling by boat (e.g. a kayak), you’re allowed to go ashore anywhere and tie it up. (Except on private property or close to houses.) Swimming is also generally permitted
7. You’re allowed to make a (small) fire and collect wood for it (but don’t chop down trees, cut or break off any wood). Local regulations may vary. If there is a risk of wildfire and strong winds, making a fire is prohibited.
8. You’re allowed to collect berries and mushrooms. (Except on private property, of course.)
9. The Allemansrätten does not permit hunting or fishing! In some lakes, fishing without a licence is still permitted.
10. Out of consideration for deer and other hikers, dogs must be on a lead in the open countryside. Most Swedes take this rule very seriously.
11. Nature reserves may restrict the “Freedom to Roam”. Camping or cycling may not be permitted in some parts.

Always follow the basic rule: “Don’t disturb anyone and don’t destroy anything!”

Infrastructure

Travellers can get to the long-distance hiking trails in Sweden by car (and ferry), aeroplane, bus or train. The further north you go, the less developed the transport network will be. While practically any destination in Southern Sweden can be reached using public transport, this is a real challenge in the north.

Those who don’t want to travel by car should plan their trip to the centre or north of Sweden carefully in advance so they won’t end up getting stuck half-way. Flixbus is offering pleasing and ever increasing options in this respect.

In addition to various destinations in the south and centre of Sweden, Flixbus goes all the way to the STF Ritsem Fjäll station close to the Stora Sjöfallet National Park in Lapland.

The food supply can also be a problem at times. That’s why you should always pack a little more and replenish your supplies at every opportunity.

However, shopping in Fjäll stations or mountain huts, if applicable, is much more expensive than in a supermarket. Small supermarkets like Co-op and ICA can usually also be found in smaller places – but the hiking trails generally don’t pass through these.

The drinking water supply on the other hand is excellent in Sweden. Many bodies of water are so clean (especially in the north) that you can drink directly from a lake or river. However, sterilising the water for ten minutes is a good idea anyway because a lot of contamination can’t be seen with the naked eye.

You can’t really go wrong with a few tablets for water purification or a small filter (e.g. Katadyn or MSR).

In general, the water quality can easily be researched on the internet for many areas and bodies of water.

Equipment

Trekking equipment for conquering long-distance hiking trails in Sweden varies by region and season.

In any case, you should take robust footwear (walking or trekking boots) and reliable rain clothing (hardshell trousers, a hardshell jacket, possibly complemented by a poncho you can cover your backpack with or a trekking umbrella).

Effective mosquito protection is also a must for your walking backpack. If you have difficulty sleeping in a tent in the bright light of the midnight sun, a sleeping mask to cover your eyes weighs practically nothing and can be helpful.

Well-known and popular long-distance hiking trails in Sweden

The King’s Trail – Kungsleden in Northern Sweden

High up in the north, the legendary Kungsleden at an approximate length of 440 km crosses the Fjäll.

The trail from Abisko towards the south leads to Hermavan. The paths are well signposted and hikers can easily seek shelter in huts.

Some of the route leads through boggy marshland and is therefore marked with large poles or runs across narrow walkways.

In addition to the northern Kungsleden, there is also a southern Kungsleden hiking trail in Central Sweden that goes from Sälen to Storlien. However, this long-distance hike of 350 km is less frequented and not as well developed.

In the future, both parts of the Kungsleden will be extended and eventually linked.

In Central Sweden on the Sörmlandsleden

The Sörmlandsleden encompasses 1,000 km or 100 day trips with different degrees of difficulty.

About 60 sections are main stages, the rest is divided into secondary or alternative stages.

When hiking in Stockholm, Sweden’s metropolis, Södermanland and the Sörmlandsleden are within easy reach.

Well-known sights can be admired on many stages. Certain parts of the Sörmlandsleden can be combined very well and linked to create a hiking trip for one or two weeks.

Many of the individual stages are also easy to manage as a day trip.

Through Scandinavia on the E1

The E1 European long-distance trail starts at North Cape. The plan over the next few years is for it to be signposted continuously all the way to Sicily. The paths in Scandinavia are already well signposted. Some are on Norwegian, some on Swedish ground (and in the very north, parts briefly cross into Finland).

It largely follows the Nordkalottleden and Grensesømmen long-distance trails. Along Grövelsjön, the route goes through the middle of Southern Sweden to Varberg (or Halmstad because from there, the journey continues to Denmark by ferry).

Skåneleden in Southern Sweden

The southern part of Sweden also boasts beautiful hiking trails. With more than 100 day trips and a total length of more than 1,200 km.

Known stage combinations on the (not necessarily completely connected) Skåneleden include, for example, the “Kust till Kustleden” at a length of 370 km from Sölvesborg to Örlid (close to Angelhoem) or the “Nord till Sydleden” at a length of 325 km from Hårsjö to Malmö, Trelleborg or Ystad.

The southern network of paths through Skåne is perfect for discovering the country’s southern cultivated landscape on short or long hikes in Sweden. The individual sections cross endless fields, dense deciduous and conifer forests and run along steep cliffs as well as white sandy beaches, dazzling hikers with their beauty.