Redpoint, Onsight and Flash… climbing terms that shape our world and make up key figures we base our climbing performance on. There are also some rock climbing words and expressions that are not quite so common. Where does all this climbing vocabulary come from and what does it all mean?
One reason is the not exactly “peaceful” history of free climbing. Very different from how you might imagine the hippy culture of climbing. Shaped by disagreements between the young wild sport climbers and the established, skilled mountaineers. Climbing is not just a sport. Climbing is an art and an attitude which many people pursue with great passion. It’s a breeding ground for many ideas and heated discussions.
This is demonstrated by various examples such as, quite currently, the route dispute in Frankenjura, in 2012 as part of the free climb of the Compressor route at Cerro Torre, to the Pfälzer Hakenkrieg (Palatinate Hook War) in the 1980s. Eventually, however, a certain agreement was reached. This lively climbing history helped to creat a lot of climbing terminology and rules. Some rock climbing terms have become established, others have been lost. This blog is therefore designed to provide an explanation of rock climbing terminology, which includes a few treats for the geeks among us. But this is not about cake. Shame though, isn’t it.
Diversion – free climbers and mountaineers have not always been friends
Free climbing hasn’t always been a natural part of climbing as it is today. The idea in the minds of many climbers has a brief yet intense history. The reason is that the roots of vertical movement are based on Alpine technical mountaineering. Where mountaineering virtues were at the centre of things, such as staring danger in the face, defying wind and weather as well as being sure of your own safety.
You had to be brave if you wanted to arrive at the top, using technical means if needed. In 1968, the Alpine Clubs therefore specified difficulty level UIAA 6+ as the absolute limit of free climbing. A limit that, about 10 years later, was increased to the 9th climbing level by the free climbing movement. Today’s common style was not applied then but it was still a huge achievement that wasn’t officially recognised by clubs.
The goal of young, wild climbers was to only use their own strength and the natural holds to conquer the rock faces. Ropes and hooks were only designed as back-up safety. The veterans weren’t exactly thrilled by this. The pure physicality of the sport went so much against the grain of the old guard that the Pfälzer Hakenkrieg war started in 1978.
Footholds were removed, hooks sawn off and crude oil was even used once so the relevant route was no longer possible as a free climb. However, the free climbing movement was able to become established eventually. It came from the US to Saxon and Franconian Switzerland before returning to the US with a new interpretation. During this process, much of the rock climbing glossary that defines a free climb was created.
Free Solo
This pure form of climbing is often mistaken for free climbing. The difference between these climbing terms is minor but makes a huge difference. Those who ascend Free Solo do climb free but completely without safety equipment.
These climbers do without a rope and climbing harness or other tools that may prevent or break a fall. Dean Potter then came up with the rock climbing words Free Base, referring to a parachute he took for safety. He could pull it in the event of a fall and safely glide to the ground with it.
People climbing Free Solo do not have this type of safety equipment. Sometimes, they will wear a helmet that will protect them from minor rock fall, but this is merely a minimal safety measure that will not protect them from an actual fall. This shows, however, that these boys and girls aren’t just going mad out there but they’ll generally just tackle a challenge like that when they’re absolutely sure of their skills. Alexander Huber wrote the book “Free Solo – Klettern ohne Sicherung und ohne Grenzen” (Free Solo – climbing without safety and without limits) in which he compiles the experiences of various Free Solo climbers.
Redpoint is obvious, isn’t it.
The free climb style per se. It’s about free climbing a route in one go at least once, with as many attempts as are needed. The safety equipment must not be subjected to load during the ascent.
This climbing term coined by Kurt Albert reflects the spirit of free climbing. Many people know Redpoint but interpret it differently. Hearsay is that even pros often don’t do it “correctly” when they announce a Redpoint ascent.
Part of the discussion is whether during Redpointing, the quickdraw slings required for the hangers must be worn on the climbing harness so they can be attached when the ascent is attempted; in this case, you can also refer to Pinkpoint.
Kurt Albert’s comment is pragmatic on this subject: “When practising a route, why should you take out the hangers every time?” It’s now common practice to talk about Redpointing, whether quickdraws are already in the wall or not. During multi-pitch route touring, climbers have to “redpoint” all pitches to be allowed to add them to their list. More about the interesting history of climbing vocabulary coined by Kurt Albert as well as the term itself can be found in his biography “Kurt Albert – frei denken, frei klettern, frei sein” (Kurt Albert – think free, climb free, be free) written by Tom Dauer, really worth reading.
Onsight
Do you not know a specific route yet? Have you not watched anyone climb it? Then you’ve got a chance for Onsight climbing. This term applies if you only have the information about the route that you can get by looking at it. It’s like the sighting phase competitive climbers have during a competition. Just without a time limit. And if someone calls out moves or holds from the bottom when you’re climbing, you’ve got to the next bit of climbing terminology…
Flash
If you get information from others or from a climbing guide’s description during or before your first attempt at a route, it’s no longer called Onsight but Flash.
Hangdogging
This is not so much a climbing style but a strategy for the highest levels of difficulty. The tougher the route, the less likely the successful ascent at the first attempt (Onsight or Flash).
In order to work out and remember the most challenging sections of a climbing route, most climbers try to find the best solution. They will climb from hook to hook and sit back in the rope to look at a section in more detail. They will look for the appropriate holds and >body positions, for each of the most difficult climbing sections. The individual puzzle pieces are then put together for Redpointing.
“Saxon-style” climbing, everything free or “alles frei” (a.f.)
As opposed to Redpointing, during a.f. you’re allowed to subject the hangers to load for resting. When you then continue climbing, the last climbing position has to be resumed. The route is a success when a climber can free climb everything between breaks.
There are roots of the free climbing movement from the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in particular that mustn’t be underestimated: this is where Fritz Wiessner is from, for example, and where Bernd Arnold inspired Kurt Albert to develop the Redpoint style.
The Elbe Sandstone Mountains were Fritz Wiessner’s childhood home as well as his training facility. After emigrating to the US in 1929, he had to find climbing partners first because there wasn’t such an established climbing scene as in Saxony. Over the following years, Wiessner developed some 50 routes for free climbing around the Shawangunk Formation (mainly with Dr. Hans Kraus, an immigrant from Vienna). He was also the first person to free climb the Devil’s Tower in Wyoming.
In turn, when the GDR still existed, he travelled to Saxon Switzerland for climbing accompanied by top US climbers (Steve Roper, Henry Barber and others). So we can confidently say that the discipline of free climbing does have an origin in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and with its climbing pioneers.
With the Red Circle Yoyo
Red Circle and Yoyo: two rock climbing words, one meaning. Yo-yo-ing came from the US to Europe and was the climbing style per se for a very long time. Jerry Moffat used the Yoyo style to be the first to climb “The Face” (8a+) in Altmühltal valley. He climbed until he fell. And when he fell, he had to go back to the ground (or to the last base) but the rope remained hanging as it was. Which meant at least that he would be on Toprope up to that point during the next attempt. But he wasn’t allowed to check out the moves in this section. If Jerry had found a No Hand Rest on this route, he wouldn’t have had to return to the ground after a fall but just down to this point.
Red Cross
Red Cross is a common way to ascend because it’s a climbing style without falling, on a Toprope or during “second climbing”. This climbing terminology is hardly used now but is mandatory during Para Climbing competitions.
Clean
Some routes can be secured using hangers such as nut tools, friends and slings . These can be removed after the climb. Hangers, like standard hooks, that damage the rock are not allowed in the Clean style. A Clean climb is similar to Redpointing. But the Pinkpoint rule is taken more seriously here, and those who would like to do a Clean climb have to attach all the hangers themselves during the ascent.
Headpoint
Some Trad climbing routes are so challenging that you’d rather not start them all the way from the bottom at the first attempt. In order for the critical sections to be checked out for the mobile hangers and the difficult climbing passages, you can first climb up on a Toprope. The subsequent ascent without subjecting the safety equipment and the hangers you attached yourself to any load is then called Headpoint.
Dot, dot, comma, dash – smiley face in a flash
Do you feel these rules are too strict and you don’t know what counts as a climb? It doesn’t really matter because most of us just go climbing among friends and not to be compared or as a competition. The only rules you have to comply with whilst climbing, and on the way to the rocks, is mutual respect, environmental protection and the rules of the road, if applicable.
In all other areas, the following applies: enjoy nature, your emotions, the movements and the people you meet. Whether you enjoyed the route in one way or another is just secondary.
In conclusion, I’d like to encourage you to leave your opinion in the comment section. A much discussed topic is advance clipping of the first or second quickdraw sling. Especially when the start is particularly tough or the risk is perceived as too high. What do you think? Safety or “weakness”?
