How Fontainebleau’s Sandstone Was Formed
Affectionately known by climbers as Bleau, Font, or simply La Forêt, the area isn’t only significant in climbing history but also has a fascinating geological past. And that’s precisely what makes the rocks here so unique.
Around 25 million years ago, this part of the Paris Basin was a freshwater lake. Before that, it was part of a lagoon connected to the Atlantic Ocean. Over time, sand was carried in through this connection, eventually settling and solidifying into sandstone. When sea levels dropped during the last ice age and the softer limestone above was eroded away, the sandstone banks remained. Today, these formations form the heart of the bouldering area. They not only offer excellent grip but also an incredible variety of shapes. But as grippy as the rock is, it’s also sensitive. When wet, climbing is strongly discouraged, as the sandstone breaks easily. Even in dry conditions, it’s important to wipe your shoes thoroughly before you start. The rock will thank you.
The Origins of Bouldering in Bleau
In the late 19th century, climbing enthusiasts from the Paris region were looking for alternatives to the distant Alps. Their solution was to climb at jumping height on the sandstone boulders in the Fontainebleau forest. This is how bouldering came into being, a discipline that is now Olympic and inspires millions worldwide.
Fontainebleau holds a unique position among bouldering areas. With around 30,000 problems to tackle, the forest offers endless variety for both beginners and seasoned climbers. The area is divided into three state-managed forests:
- Fontainebleau
- Trois Pigeons
- Commanderie
The Fontainebleau forest is the largest and gives the entire area its name. But the forest isn’t only known for bouldering, it’s also a UNESCO-recognised biosphere reserve and the green lung of the greater Paris area.
Bouldering in Fontainebleau: Crash Pad Yes, Chalk No
Bouldering in Fontainebleau is technically demanding and refreshingly pure. Climbers quickly learn the importance of solid footwork. Strongly pre-tensioned climbing shoes are often less helpful in this terrain. Instead, softer, flatter shoes with good grip on slabs are the better choice.
A crash pad is an essential piece of equipment in Bleau. While the forest floor is mostly soft and sandy, it’s no substitute for a safe landing zone in the event of a fall. The pads can usually be placed easily under the chosen boulder.
Important: The forest of Fontainebleau is a sensitive ecosystem. It’s crucial to follow official guidelines and treat the natural environment with the utmost respect. That means no chalk. The sandstone is porous, and magnesium would quickly clog the pores, ruin the grip, and damage the surface of the boulders.
Is Bouldering in Fontainebleau Suitable for Beginners, Children, and Professionals?
Beginners: A Learning Ground with Real Potential
Although Fontainebleau is known for its technically demanding boulders, the area is definitely suitable for beginners. Those new to bouldering will find ideal conditions here to familiarise themselves with climbing at jumping height, all in a beautiful natural environment. The key is not to get discouraged. Of course, it can happen that a boulder problem classified as easy turns out to be surprisingly difficult. But that’s part of the fun in Fontainebleau and what makes the area so special. If you stick with it, you’ll grow with the challenges.
Children: Nature’s Playground
Fontainebleau is a dream come true for children. Young climbers often approach the rocks in a more playful and uninhibited way, discovering their own ‘projects’. By this I mean small boulders that act as natural playgrounds. The Canche aux Merciers area is particularly recommended, with its many low boulders, soft forest floor, and relaxed atmosphere. It’s perfect for families with children as the forest quickly becomes an adventure playground.
Pros: A Mecca for Bouldering Pros
For experienced boulderers and professionals, Fontainebleau is a true El Dorado. The selection of complex, technically demanding problems is huge. From slabs and slopers to ledges and pockets, everything is there. To succeed here, you need not only strength but also precise footwork, body control, and a sense of balance. Even bouldering legends like Adam Ondra find new challenges here.
The Fontainebleau Scale: A Unique Bouldering System
Fontainebleau is not only the oldest and largest bouldering area in the world, it’s also where the internationally recognised bouldering difficulty scale was developed: the Fontainebleau scale (Fb scale). The scale uses Arabic numerals, supplemented by letters and +/- additions, and ranges from 2 to 9a. For better orientation, the grades are colour-coded:
- Green: Very easy routes
- Yellow: Fb 2-3
- Orange: Fb 3-4
- Blue: Fb 4-5
- Red: Fb 5 and above
- White/black: Particularly difficult problems from Fb 6c
This system not only helps climbers choose suitable routes but also makes their progress visible.
Parcours in Fontainebleau
A special feature in Fontainebleau is the ‘parcours’. These are sequences of several boulders climbed one after the other. These routes can be physically demanding and were formerly used as training and preparation for alpine challenges. Today, they offer an exciting opportunity to combine endurance, technique, and mental strength in the middle of the forest.
Bouldering Areas in Fontainebleau – My Tips
A quick guide to some of the most popular bouldering areas in Fontainebleau.
1. Gorges d’Apremont:
The approach is slightly longer, but the area is very extensive and varied. Most of the boulders are of medium to high difficulty.
2. Bas Cuvier:
Easily accessible and very popular, which means it can get busy. There’s something for everyone, from classic beginner problems to serious challenges.
3. Cul de Chien:
Very popular and particularly scenic. The climbing area is located in the middle of a small sandy desert. In addition to a few yellow, blue and red routes, there are mainly more challenging problems here. The area is also very popular with day trippers and families. A particularly striking rock formation resembles a dog’s head and gives the area its name.
4. 95.2:
Located in Trois Pignons, this area is also particularly popular. It offers boulders of varying difficulty and is characterised by its soft sandy soil.
5. Roche aux Sabots:
A truly versatile area with a huge selection of routes across all difficulty levels. There really is something for everyone here. Particularly noteworthy are the numerous parcours, which offer variety and require considerable stamina.
6. Cuvier Rempart:
This area features many bouldering problems close together, especially in the Fontainebleau scale range of 7 to 8. However, the approach is a bit longer.
7. l’Éléphant:
Impressive with its sandy landscape and some quite high boulders. The sandstone is heavily pitted. You should definitely avoid climbing here after rain.
8. Buthiers:
Offers boulders of all levels of difficulty and is particularly suitable for beginners and families with children. Here you will even find problems up to Fontainebleau scale 8. Located further south, it often stays dry when the northern areas are wet.
9. Franchard Isatis:
One of the most visited areas in Fontainebleau, offering problems for all levels, from beginners to experienced climbers. I was particularly impressed by Cannonball (7b), which stands out for its line and difficulty.
For better orientation in Fontainebleau, we highly recommend a bouldering guide, which makes navigating the forest much easier. At the very least, pick up the official hiking map of the Forêt de Fontainebleau. The website bleau.info offers well-organised information on specific bouldering sectors. The following video by MAMMUT featuring German climber Jan Hojer offers further insight into the fascination of the area:
Rainy Day Alternatives: Fontainebleau Beyond Bouldering
Bouldering in France is one thing, but Fontainebleau has a lot more to offer. Here are a few tips for rainy days:
- Cinema in Fontainebleau: Shows films in English several times a week
- Fontainebleau Castle and Park: UNESCO World Heritage Site with stunning architecture and huge castle grounds
- Weekly Market: Fresh local produce three times a week. Perfect for browsing and tasting
- Pastry Shops and Bakeries: Excellent selection of cakes, pastries and French classics such as baguettes and croissants
- Day Trip to Paris: Reachable by train in 43 to 57 minutes. Ideal for a spontaneous day of culture or shopping
- Fontainebleau Tourist Office: On the official website of the tourist office, you’ll find many more tips on activities, infrastructure and excursions in the region.
Accommodation: Holiday Apartments, Campsites and Hotels
Fontainebleau is located about 60 kilometres south of Paris and can be easily reached by train. It’s a relaxed journey, and if you want to stay flexible, you can use a day ticket for public transport and plan a trip to Paris, for example. The journey is also straightforward by car, as the A6 motorway runs directly through the forest of Fontainebleau.
There are numerous options for overnight accommodation: campsites, hotels, guesthouses, hostels and holiday apartments (known as gîtes), ranging from budget to upmarket. In addition, there are designated bivouac sites in the forest, which are listed in bouldering guides. These sites are free of charge and equipped with water connections and basic toilets.
Many boulderers like to bivouac or camp near the bouldering areas. However, this is frowned upon by the park administration. Bouldering guides expressly request that only the designated sites be used. So please, no wild camping.
Bouldering in Fontainebleau in Winter – Is It Worth It?
Absolutely. Fontainebleau is a popular destination for boulderers all year round. In winter, the rocks are much less frequented, which can be a real advantage for those seeking peace and focus. The temperatures are often perfect for good grip, and in dry, windy weather, the sandstone dries surprisingly quickly. It’s important not to climb after rain, as the rock becomes brittle.
If you’re looking for solitude and want to enjoy the quality of the boulders without the crowds, winter is the perfect time to visit. Families usually prefer the months between May and October, when the weather is more stable. However, for experienced boulderers, a visit to Fontainebleau is also worthwhile in the cold season. With the right clothing and a little flexibility, nothing stands in the way of your bouldering adventure.
Important Tips on How to Behave when Bouldering in Fontainebleau
To ensure a respectful and enjoyable visit, keep the following in mind:
- Rubbish: Don’t leave any rubbish behind and take everything you brought with you back home.
- Parking: Only park your car in designated parking spaces.
- Quiet: Respect your surroundings and nature; please refrain from playing music.
- Valuables: Don’t leave expensive items in your car, as thefts unfortunately occur from time to time.
- Shoes: Make sure your climbing shoes are clean; a foot mat can help.
- Crash Pad: Don’t drag your crash pad across the ground to protect vegetation.
- Visiting Times: Weekends are often very busy, but weekdays tend to be quieter.
- App Tip: With the Boolder app, you can quickly find your favourite boulders and get helpful information about the sectors.
