Feeling the wind in your hair, whilst staring into the endless distance, surrounded by sheep, whispers of mysterious legends and stories all around – all this is waiting for anyone wanting to go trekking on the Faroe Islands. The archipelago boasts unique scenery and pristine nature that can’t wait to be explored by enthusiastic hikers.
In September 2023, I – Alpine Trekker Steffi – went hiking on the Faroe Islands with some friends. In this blog, I’m sharing my favourite Faroe Islands hikes and I’m giving tips for anyone who wants to be inspired.
The Faroe Islands
The Faroe Islands are an autonomous part of the Kingdom of Denmark with their own government and administration. The local currency is the Danish krone (kr, DKK), and even though you can generally pay by credit card, it’s useful to have some cash handy as well. The official languages include Faroese and Danish, with English also being widely understood, which makes communication easier for tourists.
Geography & wildlife
The archipelago consists of 18 islands and is situated in the North Atlantic between Scotland, Norway and Iceland. The countryside has volcanic origins. It was shaped by glaciers and features barely any trees, but green valleys, deeply cut fjords and dramatic cliffs.
In addition to breathtaking scenery, the wildlife of the Faroe Islands is another highlight. Tourists can observe numerous types of sea birds, including puffins that nest in the cliffs during mating time. The islands are populated with more sheep than humans, which characterises the landscape. Not a day went by on our journey when we didn’t see iconic Faroese sheep.
A cultural heritage, which is quite a controversy, is traditional whale hunting. This is still being carried out despite critical voices as well as much protesting by animal welfare organisations, and will always keep the Faroe Islands in the news.
Infrastructure
Arrival is by plane or ferry. Flight connections allow direct options from different European cities. Alternatively, a ferry from Denmark takes travellers to the islands. The MS Norröna operated by Smyrill Line sails from Tórshavn and heads for Iceland. The ferry is a great option for anyone wanting to travel with their own car or camper van
A well developed network of bridges and tunnels connects the larger islands, while ferries usually serve smaller islands. The availability of regular bus and ferry connections varies depending on the size of the settlement. If you want to explore the most remote places, you’ll find that a car is the most flexible solution.
💡 Tip: Those travelling by car will be able to enjoy the Buttercup Routes. These particularly beautiful scenic roads are marked with a yellow flower.
Accommodation in the capital city of Tórshavn is numerous and varies from larger hotels to cost-effective youth hostels. Those who’d like to stay in smaller towns will have to stay in cosy guest houses or private holiday accommodation. Camping is increasing in popularity but is only permitted on specified sites – there is a total of 21 camp sites across the various islands.
Climate
The mild, yet cool weather is very unpredictable because the constant wind causes the weather to change quickly. I’d advise you to plan flexibly, keep an eye on the weather forecast and always be prepared for the changing conditions when you’re out and about.
Despite the changeable weather, the Faroe Islands are a fascinating destination all year round. Most tourists will visit between May and August. This time is also perfect for hiking on the Faroe Islands because the days are long during the summer, thus giving enough time for extended trips. Plus, it rains less on average. By contrast, the winter months are characterised by long nights.
We were there in September and I can really recommend this time. Strong winds were our constant companion as well as regular showers, and temperatures never rose above 15 degrees. But this meant that we had most hikes and sights to ourselves. We were able to enjoy some sunny days as well as fantastic light, with the absolute icing on the cake being the Northern Lights.
Hikes on the Faroe Islands
Hiking is just one of many activities you can do on the Faroe Islands but it’s a great and varied way to explore them.
What makes the Faroe Islands such a great destination for hikers?
The special feature of the islands is that no town is further than 5 km from the sea. The proximity to the water allows spectacular views of narrow fjords that shape the landscape. The rugged beauty of the Faroe Islands is complemented by picturesque villages that are perfect if you want to stay for a while or stop for a bite to eat.
Many historic hiking trails originate from times when the towns weren’t connected by roads. Some of these routes were used by local postal workers.
The hiking trails are usually marked clearly using stone pyramids or colourful posts. Hikers will generally find good infrastructure. The terrain is quite demanding because of steep cliffs, rough rock and slippery ground.
I was particularly impressed by the expanse of nature and rugged scenery. Every island has its own special features and beautiful areas to discover. Sometimes, you can find a pretty café or individuals offering coffee at a small stand. That’s the perfect way to round off a day’s hiking on the Faroe Islands.
What to bear in mind when hiking on the Faroe Islands?
Even though the Faroe Islands are far from being a hotspot for mass tourism, visitor numbers have increased significantly over the past years. It’s a special feature of the Faroe Islands that many hiking trails cross private land. But with increasing numbers of visitors, unfortunately, the number of people misbehaving also rises.
In addition to animals and plants being treated badly, famers’ privacy has also sometimes been disturbed. Sadly, the poor behaviour of some often leads to restrictions for everyone. This has resulted in some property owners completely blocking off their land or demanding fees.
❗ Please note: There are still trails with public access that are free. But those who want to see certain popular highlights have to expect high fees in some cases. During our time on the Faroe Islands, on some trips, we had to pay DKK 200 (about €25) per person per hike, which does put a bit of a strain the travel budget.
The following therefore applies all the more even though it should be a matter of course: during all hikes on the Faroe Islands, respect nature and the inhabitants, look after yourself and consider the following points:
- Stick to the marked trails and paths
- Be considerate to animals (e.g. grazing sheep), nesting birds in particular
- Close all gates
- Never collect eggs, plants or stones
- Do not leave rubbish lying around
- Don’t go too close to the cliff edge
- The weather can change at any moment so be prepared and keep an eye on the forecast
- Remember that there is often no mobile phone reception on remote hikes
- Number for emergencies and emergency services: 112
From early November to early December, it’s usually hare hunting season. Hiking is often prohibited during this time. You should keep that in mind when planning. The risk is quite real that you may get in the way of hunters.
Unfortunately, hiking with dogs is difficult because visitors without residence on the islands mustn’t bring pets.
Equipment and preparation
I’m packing my suitcase and I’m adding… What hiking equipment do you need for the Faroe Islands?
Of course, it really depends on what season you’re planning your Faroe Islands hikes. In general, you can use the Packing list for day hikes but you should bear a few things in mind:
When trekking on the Faroe Islands, too, as with many places, you’re best off dressing according to the onion principle. If you wear several thin layers on top of each other, the temperature in the clothing can be adapted more easily to the weather conditions because you can make adjustments in small increments. If you get hot on steeper sections or areas that are protected from the wind, you can take off a thin layer without having to continue in just a T-shirt.
Robust, waterproof shoes are an absolute must because of the weather conditions and the often slippery and muddy ground. For some trips, lightweight trail running shoes are probably enough but in general, I would recommend proper walking boots.
It may start to rain at any moment, so a high-quality waterproof jacket is a good accessory for any hike. Waterproof trousers are practical and can be put on during extended trips and unexpected rain showers. When you get to steep slopes, you have to pay very close attention though: smooth waterproof trousers can be dangerous in the event of a fall, resulting in you sliding even further downhill without any traction.
The unceasing wind makes a windproof layer indispensable. Beanies or headbands protect your eyes from blustering gusts.
The best 5 hikes on the Faroe Islands
I selected my five personal highlights from the huge number of Faroe Islands hikes. They’re not particularly long routes, which turned out to be ideal because the unpredictable weather often prevented extended day trips. In this way, several trips can be combined easily on one day.
Hike #1: From Lake Sørvágsvatn via Trælanípa Cliff to Bøsdalafossur Waterfall
One of the most popular hikes on the Faroe Islands is on the Island of Vágar and leads to Lake Sørvágsvatn. The view from Trælanípa Cliff, which is particularly well known, makes it seem as though the lake hovers above the sea.
Start: Car park outside Miðvágur (Vágar) Distance: about 9 km Duration: around 2.5 h Cost: DKK 200 without a guide & DKK 450 with a guide
Route description: The starting point of the hike is a car park outside Miðvágur. The car park is well signposted and easy to find. There’s a small building with a café and a loo in the car park – this is where you pay the fee for the hike (card payment is possible).
The trail runs parallel to the lake along a well-worn path across meadows. It’s easy to begin with, then goes up slightly but never becomes very steep.
You will reach the steep cliffs after about 3 km. In order to climb the Trælanípa, the trail runs much more steeply along the cliffs. Once you’ve reached the top, you will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of the sea, the cliffs and the lake.
At a safe distance to the cliff edge, you continue towards Bøsdalafossur Waterfall. This waterfall connects the lake, which is situated about 60 m above sea level, with the sea. From the waterfall, you can walk to the lakeside before returning to the car park.
You can also walk back along the lake. But when we went on this walk, the path was closed because of nesting birds. So we walked back the same way, which was still very beautiful.
Hike #2: To Kallur Lighthouse & James Bond’s gravestone
At the northern tip of the Island of Kalsoy, there is a lighthouse that can be reached via a great circular walk. The view of the surrounding islands is impressive, and there’s even a treat for James Bond fans.
Start: Trøllanes (Kalsoy)
Distance: about 5 km
Duration: around 1.5 h
Cost: DKK 200
Route description:
Kalsoy can only be reached by ferry. The ferry goes several times per day. Depending on the season, however, there may be several hours between sailings (see the timetable here). Those who want to take their car should book a space online in advance. If you don’t have a car, you can take a local bus to the starting point of the hike.
It’s located close to a farm in the North of Trøllanes. This is where you pay the fee for the hike. From there, follow the path along a grassy hill. The trail is signposted using blue plastic posts.
Please take great care because the hill can be very slippery, depending on the weather. On a clear day, the trail is quite obvious. But if the island is shrouded in thick fog, you have to pay close attention to the markers so you don’t get too close to the steep cliffs.
Once you get to Kallur Lighthouse, you’ve basically reached your destination. But you don’t have to turn back right away. Instead, you can explore some spots around the lighthouse. From the lighthouse, there is a small beaten track to the right. At the end of it, there’s a stunning view of the sea, the lighthouse and the steep cliffs.
The path that leads to a very narrow ridge of land right behind the lighthouse, grants the classic postcard motif with lighthouse and steep cliff. This path is very narrow though and can be extremely slippery. You have to weigh up carefully if it’s safe enough to continue along this ridge. The wind is particularly strong in this area and there is nothing you can hold on to for support.
Another beaten track to the left of the lighthouse leads further up the cliff. Spoiler alert: this is where James Bond’s gravestone can be found! “No Time to Die”, the last part of the Bond series, was filmed on the Faroe Islands so they became the agent’s final resting place. To pay homage, the Faroe Islands Tourist Office dedicated an impressive gravestone to him, which now takes pride of place here. The return journey starts at the lighthouse and goes back the same way.
💡 Tip: How about a small refreshment after the hike? Welcome to the “Kiosk at the end of the world” in Trøllanes. It sells delicious waffles with a good amount of whipped cream and home-made rhubarb jam.
Hike #3: Cape Enniberg
At the most northern tip of the Faroe Islands, there’s a cliff called Enniberg. At a height of 754 m, it’s the highest vertical cliff in the world. This Cape is often shrouded in thick fog so you need a little luck when choosing the right day to visit. When the weather is nice, the trail is easy to find, but orientation will become much more difficult in thick fog.
Start: Car park in Viðareiði (Vidoy)
Distance: about 9 km
Duration: around 3.5 h
Cost: DKK 200 to the owners of the private property (you can post the money into a letter box at the gate)
Route description:
At the starting point in Viðareiði, you first pay the fee before getting onto the hiking trail through a gate.
The path marked clearly using blue plastic poles starts easy but keeps getting steeper and steeper. You first pass lush, green, grassy slopes that gradually turn into rough, rocky terrain – watch your step here!
After a demanding but very rewarding ascent, you reach an extensive high plain. From this point, the trail is marked using small piles of rocks that can help with orientation in this area which is often shrouded in fog. Then you’ve got the choice: Climbing the summit of Villingadalsfjal (841 m) or following the path to the Cape. We didn’t go to the summit because of the weather but headed straight for the Cape.
The path is relatively level across the high plain, leading to Cape Enniberg after about two kilometres. To the right and left, you get breathtaking views of the cliffs and you can watch birds all around. In this place, the wind can really be unrelenting and the trail along the steep cliffs is definitely challenging. The return journey follows the same way.
Hike #4: From Klaksvík to Klakk
This circular hike on the Island of Borðoy leads from Klaksvík to Klakkur and back. It’s an easy but very rewarding hike with stunning views of the neighbouring islands.
Start: Klaksvík (Borðoy)
Distance: about 8.6 km
Duration: around 2.5 h
Route description:
You can start the hike in the centre of Klaksvik or park in the trailhead car park if you are opting for the shorter version. The longer trip starts in a public car park in the centre of Klaksvík (below the church). In Klaksvík, navigation is a little more complicated until the path becomes more obvious outside the town. Find your way through the residential areas of Klaksvik until you reach the Niðan Horn road.
Follow this road until the trail becomes an unpaved gravel path in parts. This path follows the right side of the mountain for quite some time until you reach Hálsur. If you want to cut the hike short, you can take a car to Hálsur. There’s a small car park.
From there, initially passing a pond, the trail heads quite directly to Klakkur. It’s not signposted but still easy to find. Once you’ve reached the summit, Klakkur is a relatively narrow plateau, allowing amazing 360 degree views. Please be extremely careful here: it can be incredibly windy and the slopes are very steep in some places. On a clear day, the view of Kalsoy, Nolsoy, Klaksvík and the sea are wonderful. This circular hike ends in the same place as where you started.
Hike #5: From Fuglafjørður to Hellurnar
The old path between Fuglafjørður and Hellurnar is no longer the only connection between these two places but makes for a good circular hike that goes past legendary spots and offers stunning views.
Start: Fuglafjørður
Distance: about 7 km (+2 km with a diversion via Altarið)
Duration: around 3 h (+ about 50 mins with the diversion)
Route description:
This hike begins at a small car park next to the library in Fuglafjørður. To reach the hiking trail, you constantly go uphill through a small park, past the school and stadium towards the edge of the town. This is where the actual hiking trail starts. It’s labelled as “Skarðrás”.
The path is briefly paved but soon becomes a track. You pass two gates and follow the path uphill along the slope. Stone pyramids, yellow posts and colourful markers provide orientation on this hike. After a constant ascent, you reach Skarðið Pass.
From here, you can take a diversion to Altarið (483 m), the Rustakambur summit, a mountain with an extraordinary view. Please note that this diversion will add around 2 km to the distance.
The trail to Hellurnar then goes back down on the opposite side. You first have to cross a stile, then follow a brief steep section before you get to an expansive high plain. At the end of this plain, a steep path winds down to Hellurnar. The same way gets you back to Fuglafjørður.
Exploring other sights on foot
For some of the highlights worth seeing on the islands, you don’t have to go on an extensive hike. In the following, I’ll mention some that can be explored on short walks.
Fossá Waterfall
Fossá Waterfall is the highest waterfall of the islands and it consists of two levels. It measures a total of 140 m and is an absolute highlight. It’s located right by the road to Tjørnuvík. There is a very small car park from where both falls can be reached. Be very careful on your journey because the path can be incredibly slippery depending on the weather!
Tórshavn
Tórshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands, is not just the only real city of the islands but also a fascinating place with historic charm. Founded by the Vikings, the city is a great place for a stroll. Tinganes, the government quarter, is located on a narrow promontory by the harbour. Picturesque little red houses by the water really make a visit worthwhile. Tórshavn not only offers visual treats but also great culinary variety – from cosy cafés to world-class gourmet restaurants, there’s something for every palate.
Saksun
Saksun is a town with an open-air museum. It’s located by a scenic beach with black sand. Unfortunately visiting this highlight (the beach) is also only possible for a fee (DKK 75 p.p.). The beach, bordered by waterfalls, is situated in a beautiful bay that’s perfect for an extended walk. Alternatively, Saksun is also the starting point for a longer hike to Tjørnuvík.
Gjógv
The small village of Gjógv is situated in the North West of the Island of Esturoy. The colourful houses as well as the location right by the sea make it a great destination for a trip. The deep gorge, after which the town is named and which is used as a natural harbour, is a true highlight. Gjógv is also the starting point for several extended coastal hikes.
Gasadalur
The small village of Gasadalur is situated in the North West of Vágar. Surrounded by higher mountains, it has only been accessible by cars since 2006, thanks to a tunnel. The town is mainly known because of the impressively located Múlafossur Waterfall which leads directly into the sea. There is more to discover in the town as well as being the starting point for spectacular hikes into the surrounding mountains.
💡 Tip: From the car park, a minor path leads out of the town along the cliffs to a viewpoint with a little bench. If the weather is nice, you get a stunning view of the sunset from there. Depending on the season, the sun sets right next to the Island of Mykines, creating a magical atmosphere.
Tjørnuvík
Thanks to its location right on the beach in a picturesque valley, Tjørnuvík is particularly beautiful. The beach is often frequented by surfers who are searching for the next wave in the cold North Atlantic. You get a great view of the two basalt formations “Risin og Kellingin” from the beach.
To sum up, I’d like to emphasise that I can definitely recommend the Faroe Islands as a destination for a holiday and for hiking. The weather will always have a few surprises for you but if you stay flexible, you’ll be rewarded with stunning views.
Unfortunately, we didn’t visit the southern Islands of Sandoy and Suðuroy on our trip. But they also feature some beautiful scenery. And thanks to the Sandoy Tunnel opened in 2023, this island can now also be visited without having to use a ferry.
