What materials are crampons made from?
There are two main alternatives when it comes to materials:
- stainless steel alloys (mostly chrome-moly steel)
- lightweight aluminium
A third option is titanium. Titanium is a great material because it is lighter than steel and stronger than aluminium. However, since titanium is several times more expensive, titanium crampons are currently hard to come by.
Steel vs aluminium
The standard solution for all-round use is steel. This material “bites” well and offers a lot of grip, whereas the aluminium models used in light crampons are only intended for tours without much blank ice and rock contact (so rather flat slopes). Although the aluminium models offer a solid “bite” when walking with the vertical point technique (where the whole foot is placed on the ice) and on hard ice, they become blunt more quickly and can also become bent. The weight benefit, however, is considerable: while steel crampons usually close to the kilogram mark, aluminium versions are available at as little as 350 g. Less rigid aluminium models with more flexible bindings are also more comfortable to wear.
Some companies such Petzl offer hybrid crampons that combine a steel front section with an aluminium rear section. They also offer significant weight savings without sacrificing too much performance in hard and steep ice.
How are crampons constructed?
Frame
The frame of a crampon consists of:
- Front
- Back
- Length adjustable bar
The front and back section are the two pieces of metal under the forefoot and heel of mountaineering boots, which make up the frame of the crampons. The frame pieces are either rigidly (for steep, hard ice) or flexibly (for softer firn and snow) connected to each other via a bar. This bar is usually slightly curved to the shape of the foot, perforated with numerous holes and adjustable in length with a steel spring clip. The sizing can be adjusted very precisely to the shoe according to the shape and number of holes. For many crampons, you can also get extra-long bars for extra-long shoe sizes.
Petzl has found a special solution: the steel bar has been replaced by Dyneema cord on the revolutionary lightweight and compact Petzl Leopard crampons. With these, you can adjust the length by simply threading it through.
The more flexible the frame (and the mountaineering boot), the more comfortable it is to walk in them. However, increased freedom of movement also means there is more chance of the crampons coming off your shoes.
There are 8 to 14 points on the frame which, depending on the model, provide a solid or rock-solid grip on the ice.
The frame width can be narrower or the same width as your shoe, depending on the type of binding. A wider frame provides a more solid base and more safety when walking. This can be important on uneven ground (e.g. when crossing a moraine), as you stand higher on the crampons and the risk of falling over is greater. The height of the platform depends on the length of the vertical points on hard ground – the shorter they are, the more natural it is to walk.
Points
Vertical points are those that point vertically downwards from the foot. They are normally arranged more or less symmetrically along the sides. There are usually two transverse vertical points at the rear of the frame.
The vertical points provide grip on the ice during any non-climbing movement. Normal walking on slopes up to about 35 degrees is also called the French technique.
Front points
The front points are also available in two versions: vertically positioned or horizontally aligned. The vertical front points resemble the picks on ice tools and offer unbeatable grip in hard steep ice. On less steep and softer ground, however, they provide less grip than the conventional horizontal front points which should be slightly curved downwards for the best possible grip. However, the vertical front points are usually supported by secondary points or T-profiles, which compensate for the loss of gripon snow
The front points are also available in two versions:
- verticalally positioned
- horizontally aligned
The vertical front points resemble the picks on ice tools and offer unbeatable grip in hard steep ice.
On less steep and softer ground, however, they provide less grip than the conventional horizontal front points, which should be slightly curved downwards for the best possible grip. However, the vertical front points are usually supported by secondary points or T-profiles, which compensate for the loss of grip on snow.
The horizontal front points are often narrow and pointed. However, on crampons that are particularly designed for good grip in the snow, the tip tapers when viewed from above and is only sharp when viewed from the side.
Vertical front mono-points have now become popular for more demanding ice and mixed climbing. As the name suggests, the front has only one point instead of two. The mono-points allow even more precise or complex movements such as turning the feet while reducing the risk of them being levered out.
The length of the points is important because of the leverage effect: short points are better suited for rock or mixed climbing long points are better for firn and ice. You can also change the length of the points on some models (e.g. the Grivel G14)
Binding
The binding provides secure contact between the shoe and the metal. The same applies as before: there are two versions and a hybrid in between. It’s actually pretty simple because mountaineering boots are usually clearly marked to show their suitability for different bindings:
For lightweight, simply constructed crampons for glacier hiking, a strap binding with generally one plastic cage at the front and one at the back is standard. The straps are made of nylon or perlon straps that connect the heel and toe of the boot to the heel and ball of the crampon and are tightened using a pin buckle. This design fits (theoretically) on any reasonably sturdy mountaineering or walking boot. However, even with a strap binding, you need mountaineering boots that are at least “crampon-compatible”, even if the crampons would also fit an approach shoe or similar for short journeys through snow.
In general, fit and stability are weakest with the strap binding. The cages are also heavy and bulky compared to other bindings, which offsets the weight advantage of the aluminium/lightweight crampons to some extent.
Step-in binding
Step-in binding (also known as automatic bindings) are attached to the front sole by a wire bar and to the rear sole by a height-adjustable lever. There is also a safety strap so they can’t be lost. Using step-in bindings requires fully crampon-compatible mountaineering boots with very stiff soles and appropriate sole edges at the front and back. These are also ideal for touring ski boots, as long as the lever does not get in the way of its rear foot fixing.
In general, crampon bindings with levers are the most secure on the boot, offer the best stability, are the lightest and the quickest to put on and take off. They also often offer different adjustment options for ice and rock climbing. If you have fastened it correctly, you should hear a solid click when you tighten the buckle.
The hybrid solution is an attempt to combine the advantages of both standard systems. And it is quite successful – the bindings with cage at the front and lever at the back are indeed highly recommended if you intend to use your crampons for a wide range of tours. The system just requires a stable attachment edge at the back of the shoe for the lever – which means it can be attached to a wide range of shoes, even if they are only conditionally “crampon-compatible”. With some brands there is also the option of switching from automatic binding to hybrid or semi-binding.
With the combination binding the lever is combined with a cage at the front.
Edelrid has successfully combined all types of bindings in its Shark model. With these, you can switch between automatic, semi-automatic and strap bindings.
Anti-balling plates
The importance of the frame, points and bindings is obvious from the outset, but the importance of the anti-balling plates usually only becomes clear after your first tour. As mentioned in the introduction section, nasty snow clumps under your crampons can make descending soft firn a living hell. The cold metal of the crampons clings to the damp snow almost like glue. This makes walking not only strenuous, but it can also be very dangerous.
If the snow clumps are thicker than the points are long, the worst case scenario is that you lose your grip on the ground and fall. That’s why good anti-balling plates which cover the entire frame are not a luxury, they’re a need. Fortunately, almost all mountaineering crampons now have these plastic plates pre-mounted as standard.
Convex plates are particularly effective, as they buckle under pressure and literally dump the snow when your foot lifts into the air. The plates should also be easy to replace, as they can be easily damaged when they come into contact with rocks.
What crampon is right for which use?
The differences in the components mentioned have actually already clearly identified their respective purposes. However, they can all be summarised somewhat more clearly into three use classes>:
1. Simple mountaineering and glacier trekkingwith little mixed terrain and rock contact:
This is where lightweight crampons/glacier crampons/alpine crampons with ten to twelve points are used (nearly always only vertical points). These lightweight and relatively flexible crampons do not completely hinder the normal rolling of the foot, so they offer higher walking comfort over long distances. It’s important to keep the weight as low as possible, particularly if you’ll only use your crampons sporadically and carry them in or on your backpack. The two horizontal, forward-facing, slightly downward-curved front points can be used to tackle short icy slopes and combined summit zones on high-altitude and ski tours.
2. Challenging mountaineering with lots of mixed terrain and rock contact:
On steeper terrain, at least twelve points are used. The additional pair of points sits directly next to and behind the front points as an angled support aid. The “normal” horizontally aligned front points are sufficient for medium mountaineering challenges and simple waterfall climbing. When on firn and ice flanks, the front points should be more downwards and the support pair more forward.
If the focus is more on combination and rock climbing, the front points should be straight and the support pair should be directed more vertically downwards. Generally, crampons for more challenging tours are made of stable and abrasion-resistant steel, with the advantages of better performance and fit outweighing the extra weight.
If you are less ambitious, but still plan to use them a lot, you should go for steel rather than aluminium because of its longer lifespan.
Steep ice and waterfalls
The steeper you are ascending,, the more the focus is on the front points. On “proper” crampon models, the front points are vertically aligned like pickaxe hooks and are often adjustable in length and/or angle. The second row of points is aligned forwards to help you stand securely on hard ice. The “hardcore models” for extreme ice and mixed terrain have 14 points and can be converted to mono-points as already described.
How are crampons transported?
When it comes to weight there are only limited differences and therefore little room for manoeuvre: the kind of tour you do determines how much you can carry. However, the packable volume can differ between similar crampons. It is important that the perforated rail or the centre bar can be slid together to be as short as possible. The previously mentioned ten-pointed Petzl Leopard can be reduced to a remarkably short 13.5 cm because of the cord connection. Normally, however, you should expect a pack length of at least 20 to 25 cm. The height of the folded crampons is determined logically by the length of the points and the shoe fixings. Crampons with step-in bindings are the flattest, cage bindings are the bulkiest.
On or in your backpack?
It doesn’t really matter which one as long as they are well packed. However, a special carry case is a must. These can go in your backpack or be attached to one of the usually numerous available attachment options. This prevents the crampons from piercing textiles or other people and also keeps any dirt, which often accumulates in abundance, contained. Often crampons are wet after a tour – and since most bags are not waterproof, they should be carried on the outside of your rucksack by this point at the latest.
What should be considered for storage and care?
Crampons maintain better shape with regular cleaning after tours. They should be kept dry and at longer intervals they should also be filed.
