8. February 2017
Properly caring for your outdoor clothing and gear is absolutely essential for its proper use on tour. After all, your high-quality gear should not only be used but also cared for so that the athlete in you can benefit from its effective functionality for years to come. Thus, in addition to choosing the appropriate equipment, it is also of utmost importance to know how to keep your favourite gear clean, free of defects and ready to go.
In addition to proper washes, repairs, storage, transport as well as your overall treatment of the product and the proper care thereof, how you dry your product plays a significant role in its longevity. Some our tips and tricks will help you to dry your shoes appropriately so that your precious kicks will keep on kicking!
Why dry shoes “actively”?
A love for the outdoors often entails the challenge of facing Mother Nature’s wrath. But, let’s be honest here: an outdoor adventure with all sunshine and no wind wouldn’t be much of an adventure, now would it? It’d be like mountain biking on a cycle path. A confrontation with Mother Nature’s mood swings quite frankly comes with the territory of being outdoors.
Let’s face it: your gear is bound to get wet, assuming that you spend time outdoors in seasons other than summer. Even then. However, there are some pieces that need to be properly dried in order to preserve their functionality. Don’t underestimate the importance of drying your gear properly, for it is just as crucial as washing. It may be fine to just line dry your synthetic running shirts and fleece trousers, but you need to keep other aspects in mind when it comes to garments made of raw materials such as wool, down and leather, or gear such as tents, rucksacks and shoes.
Let’s call the intentional drying of a product “active drying”. Even though we’re not necessarily blow-drying the garment until it is bone dry, we’re not just line drying it, either. Rather, it is a matter of using methods for drying by actively influencing the conditions that lead to the product drying more quickly and safely without any damage.
So, how should you dry your shoes?
How to go about drying your shoes depends entirely on the type of shoes you have. Just as a woollen shirt shouldn’t be line dried or down requires machine warmth, leather boots or sandals have their own special needs. So, in the following, you’ll find some rules for certain types of shoes. There is, however, one rule that applies to all shoe types: only in emergency situations (like when you’re on a multi-day hillwalking tour) should you ever dry your shoes on a radiator at a high temperature or in direct sunlight! The hot and very dry heat emitted from a radiator and the intense UV rays of the sun can make the EVA cushioning or rubber parts of the shoe, and especially natural materials such as leather, porous and create rips or reduce the durability of the shoes!
Slippers and sandals
So, now let’s move on to shoe types and how to dry them. The simplest way to dry slippers and sandals (as well as aqua and hybrid shoes) is to place then near a radiator or another heat source and let them dry slowly. Depending on the instructions on the tag, certain slipper socks with down or synthetic insulation can be tumble dried at a low temperature or placed on the radiator (but keep it on low!) to dry. Slippers made of milled wool should not be line dried but laid down to dry. For the best results, always put several layers of newspaper under the shoes so that moisture is absorbed from underneath. Alternatively, you can lean the shoes on something so that air can reach the sole. The insides of closed slippers can also be filled with regular newspaper (not coated paper from magazines) or even better with toilet paper or paper towels (both of which are softer and more absorbent).
Leather sandals should be dried at room temperature away from any heat sources or in a very dry place, since leather always needs a certain amount of moisture so that it won’t become porous and split. After drying your leather shoes, you should also apply a coat of the appropriate leather wax (especially for smooth leather), if necessary.
If you need to dry your slippers or sandals quickly, you can go ahead and use a hair dryer, heater or oven. But, it’s always better to dry them longer at a low temperature. Hold the hair dryer far away from the shoe and keep it at a low temperature. The same goes for the heater. It’s also a good idea to put a couple layers of newspaper between the shoe and the heat source. Leather shoes should only be dried using a direct heat source in extreme emergencies! Aqua shoes and synthetic sandals without special cushioning can be washed. All other shoes (cushioned, with leather or specific instructions to this effect) should not be washed in the washing machine!
Special athletic shoes
The same goes for special athletic shoes such as climbing, running or cycling shoes. Since cycling and running shoes usually have very cushiony outer fabrics, they can be stuffed to your heart’s content. But, after washing, you need to give the shoes a break of at least a day on top of the time it takes for them to dry so that the cushioning can “recover”. Running and cycling shoes have particularly cushioned or stiff soles and should not be machine washed!
As a general rule, avoid drying climbing shoes with a heat source, since most models have at least some leather. With the exception of a few synthetic and machine washable models, climbing shoes should be cleaned using a brush, neutral soap and lukewarm water. Then let the air dry. Usually, we don’t climb in heavy rains, so climbing shoes don’t really get all that wet.
Multisport and casual shoes
Both multisport and casual shoes are usually cleaned superficially. If they get rained on, just let them dry at room temperature. If you have shoes with removable insoles, it is recommended that you remove these when the shoes are drying and wash them every once and a while for hygienic reasons. That way, both the insoles themselves as well as the shoe’s interior can dry more quickly. To wash the insoles, simply use some soap or washing-up liquid and lukewarm water. Then let them air dry or place them on the radiator (on low). This makes for a pleasant environment for your feet and helps to prevent strong odours, especially in running and cycling shoes.
Approach shoes, walking boots, trekking boots, mountaineering boots and winter boots!
The more stable shoes, such as approach shoes, walking boots, trekking boots, mountaineering boots and winter boots, should never be machine washed! These usually have some percentage of leather or a combination of leather and synthetic fabric. Thus, as mentioned above, only in emergencies should you use a direct source of heat to dry them. It is better to use newspaper and re-wax them. If you’re outdoors and you haven’t got any paper on you, an absorbent microfiber cloth will help to absorb the moisture.
Even though being close to the campfire will certainly warm your heart, it shouldn’t be used for drying your walking boots! The more air that is exposed to the shoe, the better. Thus, to dry them, unlace the shoes and flip the tongue out over the toe box. This will allow more air to circulate. If there are rooms with different temperatures in the hut or at home, always bear in mind: the warmer the indoor air, the better. When it comes to leather, the room shouldn’t be too dry; for shoes with synthetic fabrics, on the other hand, dry air can really speed up the drying time. When outdoors, wind can also be useful, as it reduces the drying time. In smaller spaces, such as a tent, you shouldn’t dry too many things at once, as the air can become saturated with moisture, which prolongs the drying process and worsens the air quality in the tent.
Some general advice
Shoes should always be completely dry before using them again. Of course, aqua shoes and wellies are the exceptions to the rule, or if you’re on a trip and can’t really go barefoot. To prevent blisters on your feet, apply a thin coat of lotion to your feet before beginning your adventure and wear soft wool socks (virgin wool!). This reduces friction, which allows you to walk in damp shoes with less problems.
Of course, even the thickest of membrane boots are pointless if you’re wearing them in the rain with shorts on. Drying the material is the lesser evil when compared to water in your boots. Wear either long waterproof trousers or gaiters! If you’re on a trekking tour and your boots aren’t completely dry, put on a different pair (you should always have a second pair of boots or at least trekking sandals for longer tours not only for this purpose but also to prevent straining your foot on one side with the one shoe) and clip your wet pair to your pack. They’ll just dangle there and be dry in no time.
Last but not least: Always air out your shoes after wearing them! Refrain from putting them in your wardrobe or in a shoe sack immediately after using them. Not only the visibly wet face fabric but also water vapour accumulates in the fabric and has to be able to dry!
If you have any questions, feel free to ask our experts in customer service. They are available during the week from 9 a.m. till 4 p.m. and can be reached by phone at +49 (0)7121/70 12 0 or per E-Mail.