Zipper repair – top tips and tricks

Are you wondering whether you can fix a faulty zipper yourself? The answer is a resounding yes! If your favourite items are getting a little long in the tooth, zips may no longer work properly because of frequent use, natural wear or damage. However, that’s no reason to part with your clothing. Don’t worry, in this blog article, I’ll explain how you can successfully repair a zipper, what material you need, and when it’s better to call in the professionals for a zipper repair.

Construction of a standard zip

Before I explain the different types of damage to zips, here’s an overview of the many individual parts of a standard zip. Often you only need to repair or replace one specific part to restore complete functionality. This overview will help you to better understand our broken zipper hacks, whether your zip is stuck, not closing properly, blocked or not interlocking. The possible issues vary and so do the different repair options.

How to fix a broken zipper

Before you can fix your zipper, you have to find out where it’s stuck – quite literally. Take your time to look at your broken zip. Are some of the individual teeth jammed or even bent? Then take a close look at the exact location. If parts are missing completely, take another look at our overview to find out where the problem lies. Once you’ve found the answer, the following solutions for the most common types of damage to zips will help you. For each repair, we explain which tools you need and provide step-by-step instructions for your zipper repair. In brackets, for example (4), you’ll find the respective reference to our illustration for a better understanding.

1. The slider pull is broken off or missing

With older zips in particular, it can happen relatively quickly that the slider pull (4) breaks off when opening, closing or washing in the washing machine. By slider pull, I’m referring to the part that you use to grab the zip and move it up or down. Although this initially looks like more serious damage, it can be repaired relatively quickly and inexpensively.

Material required: 1 replacement pull for the slider

Tools required: 1 pair of small pliers or diagonal pliers

And this is how it’s done:

• Remove the old pull completely.
• Open the eyelet of the replacement pull and hook it into the zip.
• Close the eyelet of the replacement pull with light pressure until it snaps into place.

Tip for a quick zip fix: you can also easily replace the broken pull with a paper clip, a key ring or a piece of string that you thread into the eyelet of the zip.

2. The zip is stuck

We’ve probably all had this problem before: the zip of your jacket, trousers or beloved summer dress gets stuck. Whether you’re opening or closing it, you have to yank on the zip every time even though there’s no obvious damage. What can you do? In this case, it helps to clean the zip to make it work again.

Material required: soap, water, gliding wax for zips

Tools required: cotton buds and a cloth

And this is how it’s done:

• If the zip is dirty or sticky, thoroughly clean it with soapy water. The easiest way to do this is with cotton buds and a cloth.
• If the clean zip still doesn’t run smoothly, you can increase the sliding ability of the slider (3). For this, you can get special gliding wax, which is simply applied to the zip.
• After opening and closing the zip a few times, the wax will be optimally distributed and the zip will run more smoothly.

Tip for a quick zip fix: if you don’t have any gliding wax to hand, you can use household remedies such as soap. Graphite from an ordinary pencil, for example, is ideal for metal teeth, while soap can be used for plastic zips. Both are applied to the teeth of the zip and ensure that the slider pull glides better. Careful though: graphite can stain light-coloured clothing.

3. Zip teeth no longer interlock

The teeth of a zip are particularly prone to becoming bent and defective. Individual teeth can bend due to intensive use or if the zip gets caught somewhere. As a result, the teeth no longer interlock properly and the slider runs poorly. Fortunately, this problem can be fixed quickly:

Tools required: 1 pair of small needle-nose pliers

And this is how it’s done:

• Bring the bent teeth back into the correct position one by one using the needle-nose pliers.
• Be careful not to damage the other teeth or break off the bent teeth.
• Once you’ve brought all teeth back to their correct position, open and close the zip to allow the teeth to adjust again.

A brief lesson on zip fasteners:

not all zips are the same. Although all zips generally have two different textile sides equipped with teeth, these teeth are often made of different materials. Manufacturers usually use plastic or metal. While plastics are easier to bend, metal zips are more durable. Nevertheless, the material doesn’t change the basic function of joining two pieces of fabric together comfortably. There are also different types of zips that are suitable for different pieces of clothing. In general, a distinction is made between the following three groups of zips:

• Divisible and not enclosed: zips of this type are used on jackets or coats, for example. They allow the item of clothing to be opened completely. A special type is the two-way zip, which can also be opened from the bottom.
• Non-divisible and enclosed on one end: this type of zip is used on trousers, skirts or on the collars of jumpers, for example. The lower end of the zip is firmly sewn and cannot be opened. The top end, on the other hand, is free.
• Non-divisible and enclosed on both ends: non-divisible zips that are enclosed on both ends are generally found on the pockets of jackets, trousers or backpacks. Moving the slider therefore doesn’t release either end of the zip. It merely creates an opening along the length of the zip.

4. The slider slips out of the top of the zip

This problem affects both non-divisible zips that are enclosed on one end as well as divisible zips. These can be found on jumpers or jackets, for example. In this case, the top end of the zip is not fully sewn into the material. This can cause the slider to slip out of the top of the zip when closing. If this problem occurs, the top stop (2) is probably missing.

Material required: 1 or 2 zip stops in the right size

Tools required: 1 pair of small pliers

And this is how it’s done:

• Both sides of a zip need a stop at the top end. Before you fix the zipper, check whether you need to replace one or both stops.
• Then look for a stop in the right size and colour.
• Place the stop at the top end of the zip.
• Now carefully press the two sides of the stop together using the pliers until the stop is firmly attached to the zip.

5. The lower end of the zip is broken

With divisible zips, the slider may slip out of the chain or coil (6) at the bottom. It’s also possible that the free side of the zip can no longer be inserted, which often happens with jackets or coats. Frequent use can cause the lower stop or pin (10) to break. To repair the zip, the jacket is equipped with a new box (11) at the bottom so the zip can no longer slip out of the teeth. The pin can also be replaced easily. Whether you want to replace the pin, the box or both, the repair is the same for both sides.

Please note: if the tape is torn or damaged, this repair method will not work. In this case, the zip must either be shortened to take out the damaged area or completely replaced.

Material required: pin and/or box as a replacement part in suitable size

Tools required: 1 pair of small pliers

And this is how it’s done:

• Carefully remove the defective part. Make sure you don’t damage the rest of the zip.
• Slide the replacement part onto the zip from below.
• Use pliers to carefully tighten the part until it’s connected to the tape.
• If required, replace the counterpart using the same method.
• You can then thread the zip again.

Tip for experienced sewers: if the slider slips out at the bottom of sewn-in zips (e.g. at the fly), you can solve this problem by sewing the zip down (or having it sewn by a tailor).

6. Re-threading a zip

With pretty much all zips, it can happen that it threads out at one point. If this is caused by a missing tooth in the middle, the zip needs to be replaced completely. If the defect is on one of the ends, you can repair the broken zipper yourself with a bit of skill.

Material required: sewing thread in the right thickness and colour

Tools required: 1 sewing needle, 1 pair of scissors

And this is how it’s done:

• The slider is re-threaded at the defective point. Depending on the type of zip, this may require a little patience.
• Make sure that the pull can open and close the zip properly.
• You then sew the coil of the zip together at the defective point with several stitches and sew up the thread.
• The zip is now a little shorter and should work again without any problems.

7. One side of the zip slips out of the slider

This is a particularly annoying problem that really becomes noticeable over time. One side of the zip keeps slipping out of the slider (3), which in turn leads to a lot of fiddling and the zip no longer closes properly. This is how you can repair a zip on your jacket:

Tools required: 1 pair of small pliers

And this is how it’s done:

• Push the slider to the bottom of the zip.
• By threading in the free side, you can see that the slider is bent open at the side and how far you need to press it back together.
• Pull the free side out of the slider again.
• Use a small pair of pliers to carefully and gradually press the bent side of the slider back together.
• Proceed in small steps and keep threading the free side of the zipper to check.

Note: this repair method usually only works with metal sliders while plastic tends to break. If this is the case, take a look at our tip for problem 8.

8. Replacing the slider

You may not have been careful enough with repair tip no. 4, or the slider (3) may have broken for some other reason. Regardless of the cause of the defect, you can also repair or replace the slider. There are special replacement sliders that can be opened and easily threaded into the existing zip. Sliders are available in well-stocked handicraft shops. Make sure you get the right size and version of slider, and then you can easily replace it without any problems.

Material required: a replacement slider in the right size

Tools required: 1 pair of small pliers

And this is how it’s done:

• Fully remove the defective slider. You may have to be a little forceful but make sure you don’t damage the rest of the zip.
• Open the replacement slider and insert it into the zip.
• Then close the slider. To do this, press it firmly together until it clicks into place. If needed, you can carefully use pliers.

9. The zipper keeps coming undone

How do you repair a zipper that keeps coming undone? This problem often occurs with trousers and is particularly annoying. No sooner have you done up your zip than the fly is open again. In this case too, the slider (3) is often the real problem. If it’s worn out or damaged, it runs far too easily and moves by itself even with a slight lateral pull on the zip, which may happen with tight trousers or a stuffed backpack. If this is the case, repair methods 8 and 9 will probably help you. In individual cases, however, the teeth may also be badly worn and can no longer hold together. In this case, the entire zip must be replaced.

With total damage to the zip, the only solution is to replace it

As you can see, there are various minor defects that can be repaired on a zip without major sewing work and with little manual skill. However, there are some types of damage that require advanced handicraft skills. In the case of high-quality clothes, shoes and bags, it’s worth having the zip repaired. Depending on the brand, this may even be possible via the manufacturer’s repair service, while tailors, shoemakers, saddlers and upholsterers also often carry out repairs.

In the event of the following damage, the only option is to replace the zip. If you’re good at sewing, you can of course try to do this yourself as well. All others are advised to have the replacement carried out by a tailor. With your favourite items or sensitive materials, it’s advisable to visit a specialist store.

• Broken off teeth. Missing teeth cannot be replaced on a zip. This damage also prevents the zip from being closed or remaining closed permanently.
• Torn tape. If the tape on the zip is torn, the material is usually irreparably damaged. The tear can usually not be sewn, and even if it’s possible, the sewn area usually doesn’t last long.
• Torn out zip. If the zip is partially torn out of the material of the garment, the damaged area must be sewn neatly. If a piece of the zip tape has torn off, it must also be replaced.
• Defective seal. It’s difficult to repair a waterproof zip, which is why it generally has to be replaced. To make sure that the seal is in perfect condition, it’s definitely worth having a specialist do the work.