the most important things
- The Tatra Mountains are the smallest high mountain range and lie on the Polish-Slovak borde
- The mountain range is a nature reserve and has been classified as a UNESCO biosphere area
- You can get here by car, train or bus. Mountain railroads operate in the mountains
- Ortschaften zum Übernachten sind z.B. Štrbské Pleso, Starý Smokovec, Tatranska Lomnicka oder Zakopane
- The main ridge stretches over 26 km
- The Tatra Mountains have 150 mountain lakes and 25 peaks over 2500 m high
- Environmental protection is very important, the original landscape has been preserved as far as possible so that wolves and bears feel at home there
- Hikes in the Tatra Mountains are best in summer and early fall
What was the first “proper” high mountain region you saw? The Alps? For me, it was the Tatra mountains at the early age of six. That may be decades ago now but the effects have stayed with me. What I experienced then really sowed the seed in me for this undying love of the mountains. And that’s why I believe that this “smallest high mountain region in the world” is truly amazing and worth visiting.
When Germany was divided, the High Tatra mountains situated along the Polish-Slovak border were the only high mountain region accessible for ordinary GDR citizens. Luckily, today, it’s one option of many. For the eastern part of Germany, they’re still in a “strategically handy” location because from Dresden, Leipzig or Berlin, the High Tatras are no further than the Allgäu. So distance is no reason to miss out on this beautiful place that promises so much adventure.
The importance of the Tatra mountains as a natural environment is reflected in their status as a national park and UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The national park organisation is called TANAP and runs offices in most towns in the valleys where travellers can find out information about the weather, conditions and much more.
Mountains and landscape
The Tatra mountains are the beginning of, and the highest series of mountains in the Carpathians which extend from there via Ukraine all the way to Romania. Their main ridge is only 26 kilometres long but features as many as 25 summits that are higher than 2500 metres.
From the Slovak side, the Tatra mountains seem like a rough, archaic mountain range. It suddenly rises up from a wide, almost steppe-like valley, neatly lining up its mighty peaks in a uniform chain. Decorated with a little snow, these mountains might be in Central Asia if you let your imagination run wild a little. The rough, continental climate is also very much reminiscent of the east.
From the Polish northern side, the High Tatras look more like the “classic” mountains we know from the Alps, with long, winding valleys that lead deep into the mountains. The difference is that the main ridge of the High Tatras is not in the centre of the mountains but on the southern edge.
As opposed to the Northern Limestone Alps that look vaguely similar, the High Tatra mountains consist of different type of granite that erodes more quickly than the granite in the western Central Alps – thus giving the mountains their own unique look.
The summits reach a maximum of 2650 m, meaning that’s not enough for glaciers, despite the rough climate. This climate, however, results in a tree line at about 1500 metres, i.e. lower than in the Alps so you can access the open areas and vistas more quickly.
Even though there aren’t any glaciers, the landscape is anything but dull because around 150 mountain lakes more than make up for it. And the former Ice Age glaciers have chiselled out many of the densely packed, rough and steep peaks. The mountain chains are short but almost always reach 2500 metres. Their complex network really branches out, creating an exciting topography with many options for hiking and touring. The rough characteristics and the smaller surface areas are two properties the Tatra mountains have in common with the Picos de Europa in Spain which we’ll also present soon. Apart from that, the two miniature mountains are completely different.
Numerous special features of the High Tatra mountains
The consistent commitment, of the Slovaks in particular, for nature conservation is remarkable. This is demonstrated, for example, by the fact that helicopters are used only in extreme emergencies, and lifts as well as cable railways are limited to a few centres.
But to be able to offer warm meals and drinks in the mountain huts, the muscle power of “Sherpas” is used. These load carriers transport 40 kilos and more in food, drinks and consumer goods to the huts using timber frames. This can include beer kegs or bags of potatoes. As the last of their kind in Europe, the “Sherpas” enjoy great respect. At the beginning of the season, they organise traditional competitions.
Despite their small size and intense, focused development, the Tatra mountains have retained a remarkable originality. The ecosystem is in such good condition that even bears and wolves feel at home, roaming around in significant numbers. This shouldn’t worry hikers though because these big mammals live a secluded life and avoid contact with humans, meaning there are some local forestry workers in the High Tatras that have never seen any.
In 2004, there was a hurricane that was initially categorised as a natural catastrophe because it destroyed about 120 km² of the southern forest. However, this also had some positive outcomes because a lot of previously spruce-only forests are now growing back as natural mixed forests.
What do I need to consider when hillwalking in the Tatra mountains?
Let’s start with the positive: the High Tatras feature great beauty and a lot of natural treasures – also accessible for visitors who have limited experience with mountains and not much training. The cable railways on the Slovak side are particularly helpful in this respect (Solisko, Hrebeniok funicular, Lomnický štít/Lomnitz Peak) as is Kasprowy Wierch cableway on the Polish side. The cable car reaches its height at Lomnitz Peak, the High Tatras’ second highest mountain at 2634 m.
In general, the Tatra mountains are a very family-friendly destination. Individualistic adventurers in search of peace and solitude will only find limited areas. But those who might enjoy trips booked with the Alpine Club or guided tours will be rewarded with many spectacular summits, ridges and mountain faces, even as ambitious mountaineers.
The best times for hiking and mountain tours are, like in the Alps, early and midsummer as well as early autumn (the middle of June to the end of September). If possible, avoid weekends and holidays.
Nature conservation and safety
The highest mountain is Gerlachovsky Stit/Gerlsdorf Peak located three valleys and seven kilometres west of Lomnitz Peak. Its summit can be reached using Alpine hiking trails with some minor climbing. But this is only allowed with a mountain guide who must be booked or as part of a booked club tour. These access restrictions also apply to all other summits that don’t have dedicated hiking paths.
In addition, most hiking trails above the huts are out of bounds between November and the middle of June. This means that, unlike in the Alps, you can’t just clamber up to any summit where there isn’t a path as you fancy it. Furthermore, you mustn’t leave marked paths. If you try it anyway, you can expect quite a fine.
This high degree of regimentation is the price of the originality and natural purity of the Tatra mountains, despite their small area and many visitors. This is not just about nature conservation but also the safety of visitors who are often inexperienced. This also minimises having to send out a helicopter on rescue missions.
If this sounded a little off-putting: don’t worry, there are many easily accessible paths and summits for an exciting mountain holiday.
Those who want to venture out by themselves will want to know what the most beautiful and most worthwhile part is. That’s easy in the High Tatras: every valley has its own beautiful aspects and is worth visiting. You can even say that with a clear conscience about the tourist centres on the southern side. One example is Štrbské Pleso mountain lake which is well developed and easily accessible yet unbelievably beautiful. It’s also the starting point for many easy and adventurous hikes, such as the signature mountain tour to Rysy, which is 2503 m high and centrally located.
Hillwalking in the Tatra mountains – easy and family-friendly
Poland
Morskie Oko and The Valley of the Five Lakes: Morskie Oko, the “Eye of the Sea”, is a typical mountain lake that was crowned one of the five most beautiful lakes in the world by The Wall Street Journal in 2014. This type of ranking rarely has any informative value, and it begs the question why financial experts are evaluating mountain lakes instead of stock prices. Still, it’s good advertising.
The journey to the lake is a long walk that can optionally be taken in a horse-drawn carriage. The most direct route is from the car parks close to the meadows Łysa Polana (direct bus connection to Zakopane) and Palenica Białczańska via the hiking trail marked in red to Wodogrzmoty Mickiewicza waterfall. Follow the panoramic Oswald Balzer road to the lake from there where you can enjoy the atmospheric, wildly romantic high mountain region. Just remember that you’ll rarely be alone.
There are other beautiful mountain lakes in the area that are also easily accessible.
For more information, please visit the Zakopane website.
Slovakia
From Štrbské Pleso to Popradské Pleso: From the extensive, forest-framed Štrbské Pleso lake, this short lake hike leads to Popradské Pleso, the next higher lake. First, you’ll walk about one and a half kilometres to Popradské Pleso Tatra railway station. The comfortable hiking and cycling trail starts there at the beginning of Mengusovská Dolina valley, taking about an hour to Popradské Pleso lake. Amazing views and several options to stop off for a meal await you there.
Koprova Dolina cycle tour: This short cycle tour is a relaxed and family-friendly trip through the stunning and extensive Koprova valley in the southwestern Tatra mountains. The starting point is the little village of Podbanské, with the bus station and car park being located next to each other in the centre. The small but well-developed forest road starts on the opposite side of the river, following the Belá river up the valley. After one and a half kilometres, the valleys branch out – to the right, Koprova Dolina leads into the mountains. The cycle and hiking trail follows this for about 10 km to two small waterfalls. As an alternative to the return journey, the cycling excursion can be extended to become a Bike & Hike Tour.
See Outdooractive for more information.
Skalnaté Pleso – Hrebienok natural trail: This easy yet impressive 2-hour mountain tour leads from the central station of the Lomnitz Peak cableway to Hrebienok rack-and-pinion railway station. There are 12 information points where the history of the Tatra mountains and of nature conservation is explained.
For more information, see Bergfex.at.
Predné Solisko: this is a beautiful summit at an imposing 2117 m. Thanks to the cableway from Štrbské Pleso going up 1800 m, this hike is also suitable for children.
Extensive and more demanding hikes
Poland
Rysy, 2503 m: This centrally located ridge is Poland’s highest mountain and a great viewing area. It’s part of the Tatra summits that are accessible without restrictions. The ascent from the Polish side is a little more difficult, but leads past the beautiful Morskie Oko lake (see above) and another striking mountain lake. Those who are less experienced in mountain hiking should opt for the easier ascent from Slovakia and Štrbské Pleso.
More information about hiking in Poland.
Slovakia
Slavkovski Stit, 2452 m: This impressive mountain peak is also one of the Tatra summits that is accessible without restrictions. The ascent starts in Starý Smokovec or 300 m higher at Hrebienok mountain station. The trail is continuously maintained, marked and sign-posted, meaning that, apart from excellent fitness, not much is required.
More information can be found here.
Krivan, 2494 m: meaning “bent” or “crooked”, this mountain is a national symbol depicted on Slovak cent coins. Every Slovak citizen “must” have made this pilgrimage at least once in their lives. From the west in particular, this striking corner stone of the Tatra mountains is an impressive landmark. Climbing it is pleasingly simple and possible without restrictions. However, the 1400 m that need to be tackled require excellent fitness. The shortest way starts at the car park close to the huts of Tri Studničky (1140 m).
More information about Krivan can be found on this page.
Trekking in the Tatra mountains?
Camping is prohibited in the Tatra mountains, making trekking in a stricter sense impossible. There are plenty of mountain huts, however, and many passes, passages and viewing points to create crossing tours and round trips lasting several days. The most popular route lasting several days is the Tatra Magistrale that snakes around the mountains on the Slovak side half-way up the mountains.
Tourist information for the Tatra mountains
How to get there
Arrival by car from Northern Germany is via the Polish side and from Southern Germany via the Slovak side. In Poland, Krakow and Zakopane are the main destinations, in Slovakia, it’s Bratislava and Žilina. Zakopane can be reached by train. The Flixbus also goes there from Berlin. On the Slovak side, the city of Poprad is the closest for train, bus or air travel. From Poprad, many destinations for trips can be reached using the TEŽ narrow-gauge railway. It goes from Poprad to the foot of the mountains and along to Štrbské Pleso. Štrbské Pleso can also be reached directly via rack-and-pinion railway from Štrba station (express trains from Prague arrive there, for example).
Travelling locally
The transport network is very good, on the Slovak south side in particular, without affecting nature or the landscape. The cable railways are focused on specific areas. In between, there is a lot of untouched nature that can only be accessed by hiking trails and strategically positioned huts.
On the Polish side, the lively little town of Zakopane is the only centre of tourism and the starting point for almost all activities in the Tatra mountains.
The border between Poland and Slovakia can be crossed without checkpoints and without any hassle.
Accommodation
The most popular valley villages on the Slovak side include Štrbské Pleso in the west and Starý Smokovec as well as Tatranska Lomnicka further east. They’re all located at the foot of the mountains. The latter two are spa resorts with fashionable Grand Hotels from the turn of the 19th century. But the towns also have plenty of accommodation for small and medium travel budgets.
Options for shopping, eating and campsites (for camper vans, too) are also in good supply. Smaller towns on the east and west side as well as Tatranska Javorina on the Slovak north side feature striking landscapes yet little infrastructure.
In most valleys, half-way up the mountain or below the ridges, there are huts that cost about 40 Euros per night. They should be booked early because they offer limited sleeping space. Again, Alpine Club membership is worth it because the price is halved with proof of membership (reciprocal rights apply). On the Polish side, most huts are located in the forest region and resemble rustic, small mountain hotels. The highest hut there is Leopold Świerz at 1670 m in the Valley of the Five Polish Lakes.
Maps
Good coverage and sufficient accuracy for all hikes suggested here are provided in the Kompass Walking Map “The Tatra Mountains” at a scale of 1:25,000. Those who would also like to explore the significantly quieter Western Tatra mountains should opt for the Western Tatra mountains map at a scale of 1:50,000, also published by Kompass. Local shops also provide good maps.
More tourist information and keywords for your own detailed research can be found in this brief online guide at Wikivoyage.