The Pyrenees: beauty with character

the most important things

Are the Pyrenees merely a smaller version of the Alps? This may be the case theoretically because both of them are fold mountains that developed about 50 to 100 million years ago during the Tertiary period. Both of them were also covered by glaciers during Ice Ages and have therefore been shaped in a similar way.

So, in theory, the long way “over there” is not really worth it. But in reality, the high mountains covering a length of 450 km and a width of up to 130 km along the French-Spanish border is anything but a copy. The more southern position with more stable weather, in Spain in particular, and the slightly longer season make quite a difference…

A brief overview of the Pyrenees

According to legend, the name comes from Greek and Roman literature where Pyrene is a figure from Greek mythology. The Pyrenees are divided into the Western or Atlantic Pyrenees, the High or Central Pyrenees and the Eastern Pyrenees. The boundary to the Cantabrian Mountains in the west is blurred but can more or less be drawn along the line from Pamplona to San Sebastián.

If height was the only factor, the Pyrenees, with their 3404 m at Pico de Aneto, wouldn’t be considered any competition for the Alps – even though there are around 200 other peaks measuring over 3000 m. The highest of them still feature small areas that are covered by glaciers on the northern sides.

The attraction isn’t based on pure facts and figures but the huge variety of beautiful landscapes that come together in a small area. Geology has even left volcanic traces, for example in Garrotxa Natural Park in Catalonia. And then there’s the Mediterranean flair which is particularly attractive for Central and Northern Europeans: it can be felt here and there in deeper regions that are protected from the weather – especially along the eastern side, of course, where the foothills nearly meet the Mediterranean Sea.

Another special feature that the Alps don’t have includes the (partly) desert-like landscapes along the southern foothills, in the autonomous regions of Aragon and Navarre in particular.

Limestone and granite dominate

The mountain range primarily consists of limestone in the west, while different types of granite dominate the central areas. From wide ridges, such as Pico Posets, and rough plateaus as well as rifts to steep peaks, like Pic d’ Ossau, the Pyrenees can offer all imaginable mountain and summit shapes. In between, you can see delightfully wide or deep and steep valleys, numerous glacial lakes as well as breathtaking drops and canyons, such as Ordesa and Añisclo. The many bizarre-looking rock and erosion formations don’t only thrill geologists. The contrasts between the green northern side that looks like the Alps and the steppe-like to desert-like areas in the south are also incredibly striking.

This blog can only offer a subjective, incomplete selection of this variety. But it will help you to discover everything you need to know about the Pyrenees and the trekking options there. If you subsequently fancy visiting, you’ll find practical travel information at the end.

Scenic and tourism highlights

As mentioned, the Pyrenees overflow with beautiful landscapes, meaning there’s a huge choice. In theory, you can start anywhere and never risk going wrong. An initial starting point might be the three national parks that are renowned for their particular beauty and attractiveness.

On the French side, Parc National des Pyrénées measuring 457 km² is particularly popular. It extends along the border for around 100 kilometres as a narrow band between the Western and Central Pyrenees.

With Ordesa y Monte Perdido and Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, Spain has two smaller national parks. Ordesa covers an area of 156 km² and was founded in 1917. It’s Spain’s oldest national park. It features unique flora and fauna and brims with fascinating landscape architecture that’s made up of deep canyons and high summits. In addition to Ordesa Canyon and Monte Perdido, the smaller, yet no less spectacular Añisclo Canyon is a true scenic highlight. On the northern side of Monte Perdido, the gigantic cirque or corrie that is Cirque de Gavarnie is a real highlight of the French Pyrenees.

Aigüestortes National Park was established in 1955 and is perfect for mountain touring. The scenery offers fascinating views of mountain lakes, streams and waterfalls between steep granite mountains. Aigüestortes actually means “winding waters”. Highlights include the Colomers lake plateau and the stunning Encantats signature twin peaks (see touring tips).

Of course, the parks are major tourist attractions so they can get very busy on the main routes and during peak season. However, this type of traffic is usually focused on specific areas, but there is no shortage of alternative paths that are just as beautiful, only much quieter.

High summits dominate the landscape

In addition to the national parks, numerous mountain ranges and peaks are other highlights. Among the mountains, Pic du Midi d’Ossau deserves special mention. It’s the free-standing western cornerstone of Parc National des Pyrénées. Even though it’s “only” 2884 m high, this part of a former volcano is one of the signature mountains in France and the Pyrenees. Vignemale, at 3298 metres, is much higher and more massive. This giant located centrally along the border is one of the main highlights of the Pyrenees because of its many difficult ascents and stunning scenery.

Two particular summits from the “small but mighty” category include the challengingly curved Castillo de Acher plateau mountain (2384 m) in the east, which is reminiscent of the legendary Mont Aiguille, and the striking twin peaks of Pedraforca (2506 m) in the western part of Catalonia.

Among the mountain ranges, the three highest – Maladeta (up to 3404 m), Posets (up to 3375 m) and Monte Perdido (up to 3355 m) – are also some of the most beautiful.

The most striking and attractive mountain passes include the distinctive gateway of Brèche de Roland (2807 m) and the wild Brèche de Tuquerouye (2668 m) that features a bivouac hut. Both are located along the border and in the Monte Perdido mountain range.

An absolute highlight for tourists is Pic du Midi de Bigorre at a height of 2877 metres. Its summit that can be reached by funicular is located in France, about 30 kilometres north of the border, not far from Lourdes, the famous pilgrimage site. On clear days, its viewing platform spanning 750 m² offers a panoramic view of more than half of the Pyrenees’ entire main ridge. It also features a major planetarium that tourists can visit.

Reservoirs are also part of the scenery

On the Spanish side, there are several reservoirs which are scenic landmarks, despite their non-natural origin. Embalse de Mediano as well as the two reservoirs Embalse de Lanuza and Embalse de Bubal in the strikingly beautiful valley of the Río Gállego are great examples. All three are located at the foot of the central part of the Pyrenees, in the Aragon Province. There are more remarkable landscapes in the partially very dry regions on the southern side, which is protected against the rain, where you may get the impression you’re in the Southwest of the US rather than in Europe. A perfect example is the more remote Bardenas Reales Nature Reserve in the south of Navarre.

The list of scenic and tourist attractions could also be extended with Vall Nuria with its historical rack-and-pinion railway, the cave systems that are partly accessible for tourists, and many other aspects. But then this blog would have to be turned into a book.

Hillwalking in the Pyrenees

Thanks to the great number of attractive landscapes and mountains, there is a huge choice of trips and routes in all regions and at any height, of any length and difficulty. Many tours that are close to valleys leading to waterfalls, meadows or mountain lakes are suitable for beginners and families.

Because of this and the balanced mixture of development and wilderness, the Pyrenees are the perfect terrain for Alpine Trekkers. The network of paths is also well balanced: it’s compact enough so the attractions are accessible, but not so much that wild open spaces are destroyed.

In the major tourist areas, the Pyrenees are similarly developed to the Alps, but not quite so comprehensively in between. On the French side, in particular, around Andorra, there are entire areas that seem untouched apart from a few mountain trails.

Trails and paths are specified on walking maps, sometimes marked and sometimes signposted. Signs and markers are often discreet and made of natural “materials”, but compared with other Southern European regions, quite extensive. The paths are often less distinct than in the Alps. But orientation during Pyrenees hiking is not necessarily more difficult because there are not many alternative paths or crossroads that may cause confusion.

In the Pyrenees, there are many serviced and unstaffed mountain huts. Those who prefer a physical challenge and want to save a little money can also go Pyrenees walking with their own tent and supplies. See the information below for more details.

Hikes and mountain tours: 7 suggestions

1. Refuge d’Ayous (1970 m, T2)

This mountain hut is located next to a picturesque mountain lake in a dreamscape crowned by the majestic Pic du Midi d’ Ossau in the French Pyrenees national park. The outward journey and the return are easily possible in a day trip starting from the hikers’ car parks at Bious-Artigues reservoir. An overnight’s stay is recommended if you want to explore the area more. A five-hour round trip to the hut is ideal for this.

2. Valle Ordesa, southern edge (~T2)

This trip offers the best views of the canyon-like Trogtal des Valle Ordesa. Instead of the much-used path crossing the bottom of the valley, you’re hiking along the southern edge of the precipice – with spectacular views! You start in the idyllic Torla and follow the steep hiking trail or forest road on the eastern side of the valley up to Santa Ana Monastery and the two viewpoints Mirador del Rey and Mirador de Punta l’Acuta. From there, the route is easily recognisable along the southern edge of Valle Ordesa, at a constant height of 2100 to 2200 m.

The last third is along a delightful mountain path to the serviced Refugio Goriz hut. Staying the night there is recommended because the return via the path through the Valle Ordesa valley is very long (8 to 10 hours). Furthermore, the hut is the starting point for the path up to Monte Perdido (3355 m, ~T3). This tour is well worth it but incredibly busy in the height of summer.

3. “Insider tip”: Tozal del Mallo (2254 m, ~T4)

The Tozal del Mallo in Valle Ordesa is a real eye-catcher. Even though it lords it over the valley as a mighty and bold rock formation, very few hikers consider it an achievable destination, despite its unique summit being easily reachable for practised Alpine Trekkers without climbing and other gear. I had to create the route using a GPX track because there was no information online. It categorises sections as “very dangerous” but this merely refers to the rugged terrain for clambering in the middle which requires the use of the hands and some concentration. The route always follows hiking paths as well as mountain trails and there is no increased risk of falling rocks.

4. Cirque de Gavarnie walk or hike (T1-T2)

Cirque du Gavarnie is an amazing natural amphitheatre with a waterfall in the middle. From the town of Gavarnie, with its restaurants and visitors’ car parks, you can get to Bellevue along the convenient path in the valley or the hiking trail via the plateau. The routes can also be combined into a very worthwhile round trip. Just remember that it’s usually quite busy.

5. Forau d’Aigualluts and Coll de Toro (T2)

This easy hike in the Maladeta mountain range leads through the stunning Esera valley to the roaring Aigualluts waterfall and picturesque mountain lake at Coll de Toro. On the opposite side of the valley, you can see the highest peak of the Pyrenees, Pico de Aneto that still features glaciers on the northern side.

6. Cascade d’Ars (T2)

This waterfall in France, close to Andorra, is less well known and almost an insider tip. This gem is certainly worth a visit and can easily be reached on a half-day trip. The trail starts at the country road’s first kick turn that leads out of the attractive town Aules-les-Bains to the south. Initially, you walk along a wide forest road which becomes increasingly covered in roots and rocks, always at a gentle incline, taking about two hours to the foot of the waterfall. Those who feel fit enough can follow the path up to the top.

7. Gran Encantat (2748 m, ~T4), Aigüestortes signature mountain

The striking Encantats mountain range is located right above the eastern entrance to the national park and is therefore easily accessible. Car parks and a hut are situated below, next to the beautiful Estany de Sant Maurici mountain lake. However, the summit is reserved for ambitious Alpine Trekkers who don’t shy away from clambering. When climbing Coll Dels Encantats, a helmet is recommended.

Long-distance trails

Just like the Alps have their popular crossing points, crossing the Pyrenees lengthwise is on trend throughout the mountain range. There is a version on the northern side and one on the southern side. On the northern side in France, there’s the GR10 (Grand Randonnée 10), in Northern Spain, the GR11 (Gran Recorrido 11) runs along the other side. Between these two paths, the border-crossing Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne (HRP) follows the main ridge of the mountain. Of course, you can just choose individual sections or switch between routes on different mountain passes.

Travel information about the Pyrenees

How to get there

The quickest and potentially cheapest way to get there is flying. There are direct flights from Germany to Barcelona and Bilbao. Most other places require layovers. Arriving by train can also be quite quick: from Strasbourg, the TGV takes only 7 hours to cross the whole of France to Lourdes, including 80 minutes to change trains in Paris. Using the Flixbus, the economical but not exactly comfortable journey crossing France takes around 20 hours before arriving in Girona, Catalonia.

If you think of going by car, it’s best to allow two days for the journey. That means you can enjoy greater freedom of movement once you’ve arrived. Local public transport is similar to many mountain regions: it does exist and you can get from A to B but it can take a lot of time and planning.

The best time to travel

The climate in the Pyrenees is warm and humid, changeable and varies from region to region. The summer season, with good conditions for summits from 2500 m, lasts approximately from the beginning of June to the end of September. In northern France, the climate is mild and humid, getting hotter and drier towards the Spanish side. At higher altitudes, there may be severe thunderstorms on both sides of the Pyrenees in the summer.

Accommodation, mountain huts, tents

Throughout the Pyrenees, in Andorra, too, there are many mountain huts that are often cosy and idyllic. Prices for accommodation and board are rising to meet Central European levels, meaning even as an Alpine Club member with reciprocal rights, you easily have to pay €40 for one night’s stay at a camp with dinner (discounts are still sufficient enough so that DAV or OeAV membership is worth it, if you frequently visit huts in particular). Early bookings are recommended during the height of the season (July and August) and in national parks.

In addition, there is a remarkable number of unstaffed, simple shelters that are equipped with  bedsteads. Staying the night using your own sleeping bag and mat is free. Booking is not possible. It’s therefore a question of timing and luck whether you will find a place to sleep or everything is occupied.

For the Pyrenees, there is a worthwhile database with a map search function. There are hardly any huts that are not recorded on this French-language website. This includes the open, unstaffed huts.

Camping is pleasingly uncomplicated in the Pyrenees, though rules apply that vary depending on region and nature reserve status. They may also change every now and then so you should find out about them in advance while you’re there. At higher altitudes from 2000 m and at a sufficient distance from the next town or road, setting up a tent for a night is usually not a problem. But it’s completely prohibited in Aigüestortes National Park.

Walking guide books

The standard for German visitors are Rother’s four walking guide books:

Volume 1, The Spanish Central Pyrenees: Panticosa to Benasque, 70 tours including GPS tracks

Volume 2, The French Central Pyrenees: Arrens to Seix, 58 tours including GPS tracks

Volume 3, The Catalonian Pyrenees and Andorra, 60 tours including GPS tracks

Volume 4, The Spanish and French Western Pyrenees, 53 tours including GPS tracks

Maps

Detailed walking maps with an overview of the huts and hiking trails can be easily obtained in local sports shops, bookshops or hotels.