Loden – an underrated fabric?

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Dear outdoor enthusiasts, today we will take a look at the subject of loden. Okay, okay, I can already feel the questioning eyes. So let’s start by saying this: loden is neither an archipelago in the North Atlantic nor an infectious childhood disease. In fact, it is a traditional material that has been used in outdoor clothing before the term “outdoor” even existed.

Loden is made from the wool of virgin loden sheep (Ovis lodensis virginalis). They can only be bred in the northern foothills of the Alps, and even then only on islands in a lake where swimming is forbidden. By resting and eating mainly asparagus and celery, the sheep grow long, smooth coats. They are sheared in autumn by volunteer pensioners from the Catholic Women’s Association. 

Sounds like nonsense? It is! But would you have known exactly what loden is and how it’s made? To be honest, I wasn’t really sure either, so let’s take a look at the most important facts on the subject together:

What is loden fabric?

Firstly, there is no such thing as a loden sheep. It’s a shame really, but that’s the way it is. Loden is a general term for woollen fabrics. It’s not possible to say exactly where the word comes from, but that’s not important. What is certain, though, is that the material already existed in the Middle Ages. In the past, this type of fabric  was mainly used for weatherproof (work) clothing. Some people may also be familiar with the term loden as a typical traditional costume fabric and from hunting clothing

Recently, loden has been increasingly used in leisure and sportswear, which is very different to this somewhat outdated image. The fabric varies greatly. From thick to thin, smooth to rough, there are many variations. However, they all have one thing in common: the fabrics are always milled. This now leads us to our next question:

How is loden made and what makes it different from other fabrics?

Loden is a fabric made from wool. Merino wool is often used in outdoor clothing. Traditional loden, on the other hand, is usually made from conventional new wool, often from Alpine sheep. Alpaca or cashmere wool, for example, can also be easily made into loden.

However, from the raw material wool to the finished fabric, the manufacturing process is roughly the same. I have summarised the steps the wool goes through for you here in a simplified form.

Blending and combing

Loden or not, the raw material wool is carefully treated before processing begins. As not only the wool of one animal is used, it is important that the individual wool fibres are thoroughly blended. Immediately after this process, the raw wool passes over special rollers with needles to comb the wool into a fine fleece. Some manufacturers dye the wool after this process, while others dye the finished yarn.

Spinning

Spinning is a very complex process and can be done in different ways depending on what the yarn will be used for. But what’s important to us is that the wool is spun into yarns of different thicknesses, which in turn affects the final properties of the fabric.

Weaving

Weaving loden is not fundamentally different from weaving other types of fabric. However, this process is unique in that it usually involves weaving very long lengths of material, which then shrink considerably during the subsequent manufacturing process.

Fulling

Loden only becomes loden through the fulling process. This is a process that has changed little over the centuries and gives the material its characteristic properties.

The wool fabric is milled by friction and pressure in water at a temperature of around 40°C. The fibres are felted together and the fabric shrinks by around 30-40%. This results in a fabric that is very dense and therefore weatherproof. This is also due to the wool’s lanolin, which gives the fabric many beneficial properties. 

Properties and uses of loden

Loden has traditionally been used wherever there is a need for robust and weatherproof clothing. It’s a fabric that’s very typical of the Alps. In the past, it was mainly used for work clothing. This is not surprising, given that loden tends to be durable and warm. Another typical use of loden has always been in hunting clothing, where the requirements are very similar. 

In simple terms, loden can be thought of as a highly compressed wool fabric. The individual fibres are much closer together than in conventional fabrics. In addition, the felting process tightly interlocks the fibres, creating a fabric with many beneficial properties:

  • Windproof The tight weave and warming properties of wool ensure the best possible windproofness. Depending on the thickness of the fabric, this can be maintained up to relatively high wind forces.
  • Water repellent Loden is traditionally made without using chemicals. This preserves the natural wool grease, the lanolin, in the fabric. This means that loden clothing absorb very little water and therefore remains dry on the inside even in a light drizzle.
  • Dirt resistant. The wool also ensures that dirt is not absorbed into the fabric. So when loden is used in workwear or sportswear, it has a positive effect on the overall performance of the garment, especially in harsh conditions.
  • Temperature-regulating and breathable. As mentioned above, it’s a natural material. Wool is a natural source of warmth. The tightly woven structure also keeps the body’s heat where it is needed. In addition, the special structure of the fabric can absorb a certain amount of water vapour, such as that produced by perspiration, and wick it away.

Loden for outdoor use

Jacket with loden insert
The loden insert on the front of the Ortovox Fleece Loden Hoodie provides additional wind protection.

So is loden the new super fabric that the world has been waiting for? Well, it’s not quite that simple. As always, you have to take a closer look at the details. These fabrics are currently only used sporadically in the outdoor sector. Whether this is due to the slightly outdated image of the material or simply because the major manufacturers have not yet caught on is unclear.

But when we look at the products on the market, we quickly realise that loden is not only found in traditional or hunting clothing. In the outdoor sector, it is often combined with other materials to create modern and functional garments that can withstand tougher conditions. Let’s take a look at the different product groups:

Jumpers and lightweight loden jackets

Wool has a warming effect. So it’s not surprising that loden is used for this very purpose. Many manufacturers, such as Ivanhoe of Sweden and Ulvang, make relatively thin loden jackets and jumpers to keep you warm. Manufacturers like Ortovox go even further. The deliberate combination of loden and synthetic fibres results in garments with many good qualities.

Loden coats and weatherproof jackets

As we have already seen, loden has always been a fabric that has been used primarily for protection against adverse weather conditions. It comes as no surprise that coats and warm jackets made from or with loden fabrics have recently become increasingly popular in the outdoor sector.

Loden shoes

Loden shoes
Dachtstein makes loden shoes. And they look good too!

Loden fabrics are also used for things other than outdoor clothes. Dachstein, for example, uses the material to make the uppers for shoes and boots. Thanks to the many qualities of loden, the shoes are comfortable to wear and resistant to dirt.

What does this tell us?

Some materials may have a bad image, perhaps unfairly so. Loden is definitely one of them. At the beginning of my research I wasn’t convinced either, because loden always reminded me of the eighties.

I automatically had images in mind of my father in a long green loden coat with some sort of “staghorn buttons” and generally unappealing “country house” clothing.

But as with everything, it is a question of what you make of it. In my opinion, some manufacturers are on the right track. It’s also becoming increasingly apparent that old natural materials, such as loden, are finding their way into modern clothing. This is a good development, especially when it comes to issues such as sustainability.

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Alpinetrek-Expert Lisa

I didn’t choose mountain sports, mountain sports chose me. In the late 80s, my parents taught me how to ski and in the late 90s I joined a climbing club to learn how to climb. Since my youth, skiing and mountaineering are the mountain sports I regularly practise.

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