With the goal to climb in Leonidio – a resounding name – we set off on our 7-week trip to Greece. Among climbers, this tranquil town in the south east of Greece hasn’t been a secret for a long time. The enormous rock face, combined with Greek hospitality and beautiful beaches, has raised Leonidio’s fame far beyond Greek borders.
That means our bus is one of many that cruises along the coastal road on a warm day in November.
Even before reaching Leonidio, we can see the first climbing sections, thanks to the wooden signs on the road pointing out the approach to the climbing route.
Immerse yourself in the climbing experience of a lifetime
We now have 7 weeks to explore this gigantic rock formation and we want to start straight away. As soon as we arrive, the mountain is calling so we choose Sabaton.
Sabaton is a classic among the climbing sections with a mere 2 minutes (!) to its approach from here. Yes, you read correctly after 2 minutes, we’re standing right in front of the rock face. Because of this proximity, it’s not surprising that the routes closest to the car park in particular show evidence of how many visitors come here. But this is nothing compared to stripped down routes in other climbing areas. Routes higher up are amazing, and those looking for levels 6a to 7a will strike it rich. There are only a few routes from 7b upwards.
In addition to Sabaton, there are about 90 sections with currently about 2,300 routes in and around Leonidio. The most imposing is the large main wall (Kokkinovrachos means ‘red wall’) that towers steeply above Leonidio.
For sport climbers who want to enjoy themselves with levels 5a to 6c, Douvari, Orama and Rocspot along the main rock face are worth a visit.
In addition to numerous sport climbing options with difficulty levels 5 to 6c, there are several beautiful multi-pitch route tours. The easiest route is Mignonette with a difficulty level of 5c (5a obl.). Particularly recommended for all those who feel at home with difficulty level 6 is Aghios Lemmy.
Climbers can enjoy some amazing, sometimes quite tough 6 pitches. A classic provided by the two Remy brothers who have created many perfectly secured routes in and around Leonidio.
Many beautiful climbing areas
In addition to Kokkinovrachos, the areas of Love Ledge, Skiadhianiko, Bella Vista, Yellow Eyes and the Theos series have attracted us. I would particularly like to highlight Yellow Eyes and Bella Vista. Both sections don’t just offer a stunning view and are worth a visit because of that, they also feature many different options for rock climbing in Greece.
Besides slab climbing on a grey rock face, there are also pronounced sinter and pocket overhangs in Yellow Eyes.
After a hike of 30 minutes, Bella Vista welcomes climbers with a wide range of movements and rock formations.
For those who love cultivated sinter climbing, the areas of Elona, Twin Caves and Mars are recommended.
In general, the route options around Leonidio are probably enough for a lifetime of climbing. Especially since additional sections are developed and new routes created all the time.
A quick word on equipment: The routes are quite long and secured with climbing for fun in mind. I would therefore suggest at least 20 quickdraws and a rope of 70, ideally 80 metres.
A climbing helmet is a must in my opinion because there is a risk not only of loose rocks in the wall but also of stones that are loosened by goats grazing up above.
Activities for days off from climbing in Leonidio
Leonidio has a lot to offer when your fingers need a break from the harsh chalk. Relaxing on the beach and going swimming is always a good idea. But since we felt it was a little too chilly for that in December, we decided to take two stray dogs from the Koue and Katsoua Project and walk to the Profitis Ilias Chapel above Leonidio with them.
Volunteers take in abandoned dogs, look after them and try to find them a home. The small “animal sanctuary” is located in Leonidio, and our cute four-legged friends are always keen to go walkies.
Another classic for rest days is the Elona Convent. This nunnery was built into the rock and, in addition to this remarkable architecture, also has an exciting history. It’s currently open on Saturdays and Sundays only.
Sometimes, it’s also refreshing just to sit back, relax and visit one of the cosy cafés to enjoy a delicious Greek coffee or mountain tea.
Time to enjoy some food
In addition to many small bars and cafés, there are several restaurants in and around Leonidio that are particularly worth mentioning. First of all “En Leonidio” tavern that offers tasty stone oven pizza, a wonderful atmosphere and warm-hearted staff.
Mitropolis is also located in Leonidio. The open fireplace and the delicious aromas are certainly inviting. This restaurant offers Greek food as we would imagine it. Everything is home-made and well seasoned.
Myrtoon is situated on the waterfront, about 15 minutes by car from Leonidio, offering freshly caught fish and tasty culinary sensations. This restaurant is also very popular with the locals.
Accommodation
Seaside tourists have been coming to Leonidio during the summer for a long time, and climbing tourists during the cooler months for a few years. Therefore, the town features numerous accommodation options.
In addition to a lot of private accommodation, there are also a few hotels, some with a sauna, and, of course, a camping ground that is open year-round.
Good to know
Every Monday is market day in the centre of Leonidio. The valley between the rocks is very fertile, meaning the inhabitants make a living from agriculture. This means, you can buy crunchy vegetables and fruit, freshly caught fish, home-made soap, olive oil, honey and all sorts of delicacies at the market. I’d absolutely recommend a visit.
In Leonidio, there are two supermarkets with a wide selection. There’s also “Kaba”, a shop that sells a lot of home-made items, regional goods and organic products.
Besides the two supermarkets, Leonidio also has two climbing shops. Firstly, there’s the Panjika Co-operative that runs a small climbing shop and a café. Then there’s the kind Local Do It (his nick name) who has decided to open the Climb 2 Red shop and to keep expanding it.
Both locations are perfect for meeting other climbers, talk about the latest routes and share experiences.
The best time of the year
Greek hospitality, combined with summery temperatures and amazing climbing options, is particularly attractive in winter.
Many of the rocks face the south or southwest, making it too hot for climbing in the summer. The recommendation is therefore to go rock climbing in Greece between October and March.
Owing to the existing and constantly expanding range of routes, climbing in Greece in Leonidio is definitely something we’ll do a few more times.
