“All mountains on one side, and Prokletije on the other.”
Serbo-Croatian saying
“The Accursed Mountains must be one of the last mountain ranges in Europe that haven’t been fully discovered yet. It’s one of the most mysterious and romantic places in Europe.” From the (slightly outdated) profile on Summitpost.org1
That may be slightly exaggerated but there’s certainly some truth to these quotes. The journey from Germany to these “other” mountains follows the Croatian Adriatic coast south. During this journey, highly karstified, beautiful mountain ranges keep coming into view that form part of the Dinarics or the Dinaric Alps. They span across extensive parts of the western Balkans and reach their south-eastern end at the border of Montenegro and Albania.
What names are they known by and what do they mean?
This is where the highest and wildest Dinaric mountains can be found that are known under different names. In Montenegro, the Serbo-Croatian name “Prokletije” is used, in Albania, the area is called “Bjeshkët e Nemuna”. Both mean something along the lines of “Accursed Mountains”, which refers to the tough living conditions of the people in the area. The most common name for the Albanian part of this massif is “Albanian Alps” (Alpet Shqiptare).
There are other regional names such as “Dukagjin” for the many smaller mountain ranges and sub-sections. In order to avoid confusion, I will refer to them as the Albanian Alps or the Accursed Mountains in Albania when talking about the Albanian part. Otherwise, I’ll stick to “Prokletije” or “Accursed Mountains”, these are the names many foreigners use when describing the mountains of both countries together.
What makes these Accursed Mountains so special?
The similarity with some Alpine limestone massifs is indisputable. However, when taking a closer look, you will discover that the Prokletije have some significant differences based on their southern and more remote location.
Two differences compared with the Alps is the less extensive infrastructure and the lower visitor volume. There still aren’t any mountain huts above the valleys. Instead there are vast areas of true wilderness where large mammals such as bears, wolves and lynxes can live. The last large European primary forests can be found in some valleys on the Albanian southern side that are difficult to access.
This unspoiled state makes the steepness and size of Prokletije seem particularly impressive. They may not reach extreme heights (the highest mountain is Jezerca at 2,694 metres) but because of ice age glaciers, the valleys are cut deep into the mountains and the differences in height compared with the summits are significant. Geology ensures that these differences in height are filled with dramatic rock faces, tors and other features. Plus, the intense sun also has a noticeable effect: it keeps setting different scenes for the mountains with ever-changing colours and lights.
A small mountain topography and some highlights
The part of the Accursed Mountains in the South-East of Montenegro is located where the border forms a deep indentation on the map to the South. In a West-East direction, the wide valley of the Ljuca River can be found here. This is where the small towns of Gusinje and Plav are situated. They’re the central tourist base camps on the Montenegrin side.
From the valley of the Ljuca, two tributary valleys lead south into the mountains. The best known and most attractive are Grebaje in the West and Ropojana on the eastern side. At the start of the Ropojana Valley, the village of Vusanje is another tourist base with good accommodation but no shopping opportunities.
The Albanian side of the mountains is significantly larger than the Montenegrin. Long, meandering valleys lead from the coastal back-country eastwards and into the North Albanian Alps. In between, mountain ridges and smaller valleys run in all directions.
Tourist spots
In the Albanian Alps, there are also two major tourist valleys: Theth Valley and Valbona Valley. Based on the complex mountain topography, the main towns Theth and Valbonë require a journey of several hours to reach them, even though they’re barely 50 km away from Shkodra as the crow flies. With its abundant accommodation, excursion providers and supply opportunities, this large city at the south-western foot of the mountains is the central starting point.
The landscape of the Albanian Alps is versatile and attractive, even away from the two “main valleys”. Further North along the border, other long and deep valleys lead from Skadar Lake into the mountains. They’re not well known but are even more impressive with their dry, Mediterranean landscapes. The huge rock masses and gorges would make a great backdrop for any Western movie. It may be the slightly rough, harsh aura that causes it to be used solely as a transit zone which, away from the well developed thoroughfares, features barely any tourist infrastructure.
Viewpoints
Two breathtaking viewpoints in this area are the Albanian mountain pass Hani e Hotit and the promontory Grlo Sokolovo which can be reached in one to two hours by car and foot from the Montenegrin capital of Podgorica.
Towards the South, the Albanian Alps are so contorted and rugged that orientation quickly becomes difficult. The fjord-like Koman Reservoir forms the southern edge of this inaccessible landscape. It dams the Drini River into a lake with many arms running between a multitude of high rocky ridges and summits. Car ferries cross a part of the main route from Shkodra to Valbona in about three hours. The alternative route without a ferry doesn’t save any time. It leads across very poor, winding mountain roads in a huge detour.
In addition to ferries, pleasure boats cruise on the Koman Lake, with their main destination being “Shala Beach”. This white pebbly beach on a cool mountain stream is located at the end of a dramatically beautiful side arm. It’s currently changing from a remote natural gem into a mixture of carnival and Bacardi advert.
A look at history
The uniqueness of the Accursed Mountains is also based on its eventful history. This part of the Balkans has always been a meeting point and melting pot of the different cultures from the East and the West. Occasionally, it was a flashpoint of incompatible interests.
Even in ancient times, important trade routes led through this region. In the second century before Christ, Rome became the greatest force, building roads and bridges as well as promoting trade. After Rome’s downfall, the Slavs, Byzantines and Serbs gained the upper hand. In the 15th century, the Ottomans – from what is now Türkiye – assimilated the area into their extensive empire. They reigned until 1912.
History from 1913
After the Second World War, it traded as a part of Albania and as a part of the Yugoslavian Republic. After the collapse of Yugoslavia in 1991, the eastern border of the Prokletije was assigned to Kosovo.
The changing borders were generally decided in faraway capitals without consideration for the residents. It happened quite often that trade routes and family relationships were severed.
For the entire communist era, Prokletije was a military-restricted zone, traversed by the stringently guarded border between the completely shielded Albania run by dictator Hoxha and the equally paranoid dictator Tito’s Yugoslavia. Apart from local shepherds, no civilians were allowed access to the area. Very few mountaineers with special permission were privileged enough to climb the massif from the Yugoslavian (Montenegrin) side. Mountaineering as a privilege for athletes – after strict selection – was not just common practice here but in all socialist countries.
It was only from 2005 that the situation started to relax enough, with cross-border traffic no longer being prohibited and the first Alpine trekkers from Western Europe being allowed to explore the Accursed Mountains. Tourist facilities started to develop in the valleys while only limited signs of human presence has been visible up in the mountains until now. Exceptions included the Peaks of the Balkans main hiking trail and some former military posts that function as provisional shepherds’ accommodation.
Which places and summits are particularly worth visiting?
Choosing from the many worthwhile, particularly beautiful towns would be hard even for locals who know the area. So this is more a haphazard and definitely incomplete attempt by a foreigner who doesn’t know the area particularly well:
Jezerca (2694 m):
As Prokletije’s and Albania’s highest mountain, this mighty pyramid is a popular destination for Alpine trekkers. From the Albanian Valbona Valley, the summit can be climbed in a challenging day trip taking around 10 hours (more information and GPX track on alpventurer.com).
Karanfili massif (up to 2,490 m):
These unique tors that are massive and delicate at the same time rise up between the Grebaje and Ropojana Valleys to a height of 1,000 metres. Their magnificence can be admired best from the Grebaje Valley where they dominate the valley floor. From the entrance of the national park, you can hike to the small side valley of Valušnica. Depending on time and mood, you can go up to the summit with the same name at 1,879 metres (photos and GPX track can be downloaded by registered users on Wikiloc). From there, you can see the “classic” Karanfili panorama. This is one of the best motifs of the Prokletije and the whole of the Balkans.
Harapit/ Arapi (2487 m):
This gigantic and steep peak can be seen clearly from Theth and is therefore one of the best known Prokletije summits. In a day trip starting in Theth, you can admire the mountain from close up and from several sides. The summit is reserved for expert climbers.
Maja e Thatë (2406 m):
The guardian of the Valbona Valley is not one of the highest mountains, but it’s impressive because of its steepness, massiveness and exposed position right above Valbona. Without climbing gear, the summit can only be reached by fearless Alpine anoraks.
Buni i Jezerce (~1800 m):
This remote high valley features many glacial lakes and is framed by rocks promising adventure. Its supernatural beauty makes it a no longer very secret insider tip for a night’s camping in the wilderness. Recommended access is via the route from Theth in Albania because you won’t then cross the green border.
Hollow Door/Kissing Cats:
If you hike up the valley in the picturesque Grebaje, you will see a natural arch up on the ridge on the left that looks like two cats kissing – it’s uncanny! Such a strange sight.
Even more strange is seeing small, solidly built bunkers in the mountain countryside. They were designed to provide protection from enemy attack which existed primarily in the imagination of dictator Enver Hoxha. You can discover several examples on the hiking trail from Theth via the Pejes Pass towards the border and Vusinje. The first will appear after about an hour’s walk on the side of the branched streambed. After that, it’s not until after the steep pass incline, but they adorn a truly magical mountain landscape.
Which routes are good for hillwalking?
Since there are so many beautiful areas, there are many great options for hillwalking. But be aware that many of the “paths” marked on maps are merely traces of former shepherd and trade tracks that have only recently been maintained and signposted for tourist needs, if at all.
More extensive trips
As an initial tour with “Alpine track standards” and to gain an overview, I recommend the Valbona Pass (1,795 m) from Theth or Valbona as well as the Pejes Pass (Qafa e Pejës, 1,710 m) from Theth. Thanks to exact descriptions in the usual hiking apps and excellent signposting, they’re suitable for those with less hiking experience and those who are new to the area. It’s similar with the trip up to the Valušnica panoramic mountain (1,879 m) in the Grebaje Valley which is also quite well frequented. During this journey, you even have great views and impressions lower down. So, giving up before the summit wouldn’t be a problem (for further information, see above under “Karanfili massif”).
Those who want to explore the mysterious southern Accursed Mountains in Albania, should go on the Shala Hiking Trail. Even though it starts right by the bass sounds and smells of deep-fryers at “Shala Beach” mentioned above, it’s an insider tip and a great hiking experience. The path is steep and should only be attempted in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the summer’s heat. Despite markings, the path is sometimes hard to spot in the undergrowth. This is why hiring a local guide is a good idea. From a time perspective, the “Shala Trail” cannot be conquered in one day trip from Shkodra. You should book a night’s accommodation at “Shala Beach”. Further information and photos can be found on theholisticbackpacker.com.
Shorter trips
Those who have little time or prefer shorter trips will have more luck in Theth than in Valbona or the Montenegrin valley villages where the viewpoints and natural attractions are further away.
Shorter, worthwhile trips include:
Theth village church: This little church is a highly frequented yet stunning attraction with great views of the valleys. It’s spectacularly framed by the mountains. From the tourist centre, it’s about a 15 minutes’ walk downstream to the old village with the church.
Grunas waterfall: The waterfall measuring about 20 metres is a real treat with a great view of the Theth Valley. Many swimming enthusiasts and sun worshippers meet here in the summer. A walk of about one hour from Theth will take you there in about half an hour from the road towards Ndërlysaj (insignificant turning with parking bay for 2-3 cars).
The walk to the “Blue Eye”, a deep blue mountain spring bordered by a waterfall right in the middle of a forest, is only a little longer. It looks like you want to leap into it but once you’ve immersed your hand, most people stick with just looking at it. From the small town of Ndërlysaj, it’s about 1-2 hours there and back. A description of the journey with photos can be found on Komoot. The odd categorisation as “difficult” should not deter anyone.
Tips for long (= demanding) Prokletije trips
If you have little experience with hillwalking or mountaineering but big ambitions, you should join a local guide or an organised group. Exploring the extent of the Prokletije on one’s own really means having to fend for yourself. It’s still a remote border area with primarily rough terrain, no mobile reception, rapidly changing weather and little water because this mainly drains into the karst.
Only the main paths are signposted clearly and correctly. A GPS device with a fully charged battery and carefully planned tracks must therefore be part of your basic equipment. Long trips are associated with staying the night in a tent or bivouac inside the habitat of bears and wolves. That’s why precautions such as odour-proof packing of food aren’t a bad idea.
Getting help in the event of an emergency is down to luck. Organised mountain rescue does exist but it does not – by a long shot – have the capacities and structures like in the Alps.
I’m not trying to frighten anyone here. I’m just trying to point out that long trips in the Prokletije are automatically demanding trips where you must always make sure you can recognise “points of no return” in time, and not to take any irreversible steps that you may risk in the Alps.
Where can you climb in the Accursed Mountains?
Basically everywhere and nowhere. Sports climbers and Alpine climbers “accustomed” to prepared routes from a guide will find very little to do. Climbing routes on major mountains consist mainly of one line drawn on some photo. Sports climbing rocks can be found close to Gusinje. However, it remains to be seen whether they’re worth the long journey to get there. Boulderers, on the other hand, are more likely to have their fun because there’s a nice field of boulders in the Valbona Valley with about 100 routes. The levels of difficulty are more something for beginners and won’t attract advanced movers from Fontainebleau or Magic Wood.
Tourist information
The whole Montenegrin part of the Prokletije has been a national park since 2009. An entry fee of €10 and a daily sojourn tax of €5 will be charged (last updated Summer 2023). Camping anywhere in the countryside is not officially permitted but is often tolerated if the tent is set up far enough above the valleys.
On the Albanian side, the entire central mountain area has been declared a national park (NP Valbona Valley and NP Theth). But rules are barely monitored and implemented. This has the advantages of free entry and freedom of movement. This should not be misunderstood as an invitation to misbehaviour that may damage the environment.
Further tourist information such as how to get there or accommodation largely corresponds to those in the recent article “Peaks of the Balkans Trail”, which is why there is a link to it.
Endnote
1: https://www.summitpost.org/prokletije/153694 (This site hasn’t been updated for 20 years but a lot of the comprehensive information is still good. This also applies to the almost 700 labelled photos.)
Research tips for independent route planning
Nestvarna.blog (High-quality Serbian Alpine blog about Prokletije and other mountains in the Balkans, English translation and excellent photos)
Journeytovalbona.com (informative and refreshingly funny site about mountains and trips in the Valbona Valley which I didn’t mention enough here compared with Theth Valley)
