The Pacific Crest Trail from North to South

The Challenges of Hiking the PCT Southbound

There are several reasons why far fewer hikers attempt to hike the Pacific Crest Trail from Canada to Mexico. Firstly, there are more logistical challenges as it’s not permitted to enter the United States on foot from Canada via the PCT. This means you’ll need to cover part of the distance twice if you want to start at the northern PCT trailhead.

Secondly, the time window for a southbound thru-hike is shorter and less predictable than the classic northbound route. You’ll need to wait until snow levels in the Cascades are manageable. Depending on the year, this is from late June to late July, which requires greater spontaneity when it comes to setting off. That leaves you until roughly the beginning of October to cross the Sierra Nevada before winter sets in. But if you’re willing to embrace these challenges, a southbound thru-hike offers a truly unforgettable experience. With fewer crowds and generally fewer rainy days, it’s a journey that will stay with you for life.

Washington: Snow, Blowdowns and Bear Encounters

After a week of waiting in Bellingham, Washington, the time had finally come. The weather station at Harts Pass reported zero inches of snow. This is not a sign of clear trails but rather indicates that the minimum snow depth has been reached to start hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. After a short stretch on the Pacific Northwest Trail, I joined the PCT and crossed the first snowfields in the Cascade Mountains. This spectacular mountain range stretches across Washington to the northern monument. It marked the beginning of a five-month hike through the wilderness of the American West, filled with adventure, challenges and awe-inspiring nature.

The PCT in Washington is stunning, with snow-capped peaks and wildflowers beginning to bloom. But after two weeks, the first major setback hit. For over 20 miles, the trail completely disappeared under blowdowns. It was exhausting to crawl under trunks, climb over them and balance on slippery wood, all while carrying a 15-kilogram backpack. Progress slowed, frustration mounted and everything hurt. My legs were scraped and bruised, and mosquitoes were relentless. The first of three encounters with a bear right on the trail didn’t help to boost my morale either. As majestic as these animals are in the wild, I began to seriously question what I’d signed up for.

Doubts Creeping In

For the first time, I seriously considered quitting. But a brief stay with the Dinsmores, one of the most famous Trail Angels on the PCT, lifted my spirits. I’ll always remember how they welcomed strangers with food and a place to stay, asking nothing in return. Soon after came a scenic highlight: the Goat Rocks Wilderness with breathtaking views of Mount Rainier and Mount Adams. This helped me forget the weight of my struggles and gave me a much-needed boost.

However, blowdowns and the consistently difficult navigation across Washington’s snowfields had thrown my schedule off track. I was about two weeks behind my original schedule. The descent to Cascade Locks lay ahead of me, which is one of only two towns located directly on the Pacific Crest Trail. To reach the Sierra Nevada before autumn, I had to move fast. In Cascade Locks, I picked up my usual supplies, ate a quick burger, and regretfully skipped the ‘zero days’ I’d originally planned. Those are rest days with no hiking at all, but I couldn’t afford them now.

Oregon: Lava Fields and Wildfires

The PCT in Oregon leads through densely wooded terrain that is relatively moderate, allowing me to cover many kilometres in a day. My journey through the Beaver State began with a stop at the famous breakfast buffet at Timberline Lodge in the Mount Hood ski resort, the iconic filming location for Stanley Kubrick’s The Shining.

Time and again, I was rewarded with wonderful views of the Three Sisters rising from the surrounding wilderness area. However, the jagged lava rocks that characterise long stretches of the trail here took a serious toll on my shoes. I had to replace them for the first time, which led to another unplanned break. In Oregon, the trail also begins to become more social for southbound hikers. Here, you cross paths with the wave of northbound hikers, exchanging stories and experiences. Though the temptation to linger and chat was strong, 40-kilometre days had become the new routine.

Then came the first reports of wildfires, rendering Crater Lake, one of the highlights of the PCT, inaccessible. Luckily, the section reopened just in time for my arrival. Soon after, I reached the small university town of Ashland and reunited with a fellow hiker I hadn’t seen since a zero day in Stehekin, a tiny village in Washington. We decided to take on California together, the final state on the trail.

California: Heat, Water and Altitude

Crossing into California on the Pacific Trail is a mental hurdle at first. It’s hard to fathom that the final 1,692 kilometres of the trail are spent solely within this state. Reaching the halfway point felt daunting. What, only halfway? But the views of Mount Shasta in Northern California quickly lifted my spirits. The infamous Pancake Challenge in Seiad offered some variety as well: 2.2 kilograms of pancakes to be eaten within two hours. Despite my insatiable hiker’s appetite, I failed the challenge like so many before me.

It was getting hotter every day and water became increasingly scarce. In the arid Hat Creek Rim area, there are no natural water sources for 46 kilometres. That meant carrying a lot of water and relying on the generosity of trail angels who left water or soft drinks along the path now and then. Those small acts of kindness meant everything in the heat.

Sierra Nevada: Rattlesnakes and Bears

Rattlesnakes became increasingly more common, but thankfully they kept their distance. The heat was intense, yet my excitement for the Sierra Nevada grew stronger. Before ascending into the high mountains, I still needed to organise a bear canister. This is a mandatory container for storing food safely, for your own safety and to deter bears.

I reached the Sierra at Sonora Pass and was immediately filled with a great sense of respect for what lay ahead. Now began the highlight of the PCT with Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia National Parks. These are names that every hiker knows and which, for many, are the epitome of the PCT dream. But this section is tough, consisting of relentless high-altitude passes with steep climbs. There are a total of seven passes and almost 24,000 metres of elevation gain. Luckily, I was in good shape. The scenery, especially in Kings Canyon National Park, was so breathtaking that it made every step worth the effort. Before I reached the final stretch of the Sierra Nevada, I hitchhiked to Bridgeport to get supplies and rest a bit. Even off-trail, the generosity of strangers continued to amaze me.

Autumn Approaching with Cold Nights and Desert Heat

By early October, I reached Forester Pass, the highest point on the PCT at 4,009 metres. I also made a short detour to Mount Whitney, the highest mountain in the continental United States at 4,421 metres. I noticed that autumn was creeping in. Some nights in the Sierra pushed my sleeping bag with its comfort temperature of -4 degrees to its limits. By mid-October, I reached Kennedy Meadows and left the Sierra behind. Ahead lay 700 miles of desert, a fascinating high-desert landscape and the unforgiving heat of the Mojave Desert.

In Southern California, however, I quickly realised that the demanding and steep terrain of the Sierra Nevada had taken its toll. I kept getting sharp pains in my knee, which forced me to take a longer break in Big Bear Lake. After a week of rest, I tried to continue, but it quickly became clear to me that the pain was simply too much. I limped to Warner Springs, and just 200 kilometres before my destination, my journey came to an end. Though I didn’t reach the southern PCT trailhead at the Mexican border, the initial disappointment soon gave way to pride at what I had achieved. I experienced an incomparable adventure that will be etched in my memory forever.

Pacific Crest Trail: Facts and Figures