4.56 of 5 stars
Scarpa - Instinct VS - Climbing shoes tested
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Shoes are very personal. The size, the shape, the fit, the style of climbing.
These are great for edging, toe and heel hooks - perfect for bouldering.
The shape fits my feet perfectly - you really need to try a pair on and see if it fits the shape of your feet and determine what size you need.
The rubber is strong and sturdy meaning it provides great support for edging, toe work and it has good grip although due to it's rather aggressive shape (it arches), I find that it's not great for trad/ slabs where you want to apply as much surface of the sole of shoes as possible but it's certainly not bad - it's... good. As the rubber is not as soft, it doesn't wear down as quick and stretches only a little (maybe a quarter size).
For me, it wraps my feet securely meaning I can pretty much use the top, sides, bottom and heel without the feet slipping inside the shoes giving me excellent control.
Definitely buying these again or the newer Instinct VS-Rs.
Tip for putting them on (as they are like tight slippers) - fold the heel down, and slip feet in then stick fingers into straps and pull strap (heel of shoes) back out and over your heel!
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- Advantages
- High edge stability
- Good grip
- Good fit
- Robust
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- Recommended use
- Bouldering
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
Had these shoes for over a year now and they have never failed me. As a taller and heavier climber the shoe feels stiff enough under my weight while still giving me the softness needed to be extra precise.
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- Advantages
- High edge stability
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- Recommended use
- Sport climbing
- Indoor climbing
Altough they had a long break in period (downsized 1.5 size) of three months, would definitely buy them again. Good stability on small edges, very good indoor and outdoor, rubber still looks brand new (climbing 3-4 times a week, long sessions). Not comfortable to wear walking around the gym or belaying, but make it up with performance on the wall. Maybe not the best beginner shoe or for people that dont climb agressively.
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- Advantages
- Good grip
- High edge stability
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- Disadvantages
- Not comfortable
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- Recommended use
- Indoor climbing
- Sport climbing
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