Jugs:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.bergfreunde.de\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Henkel-und-Taschen-300x225.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nEvery beginner\u2019s<\/strong> favourite hold. Even if they\u2019re few and far between on more difficult routes, unless there\u2019s an overhang.<\/p>\n\n\n\nEven if jugs make it tempting to climb using brute force<\/strong> to pull yourself up, this \u201ctechnique\u201d will just frustrate you in the long term. Pullups won\u2019t get you very far on rock walls and difficult routes. For these, proper climbing technique<\/strong><\/a> is much more important. That\u2019s why you should practice indoors on vertical routes and those with a slight overhang to perfect the basic techniques. When the difficulty increases and the jugs only serve as a spot to rest, good climbing technique is much more helpful than pure strength.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.bergfreunde.de\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Leisten-225x300.jpg\")
<\/a>Ledges<\/h3>\n\n\n\nOne of the first major hurdles<\/strong> you will encounter are the very small ledges (often called crimps) where only one or two fingertips have space. If you have excellent finger strength<\/strong>, these usually don\u2019t pose a big problem. But as annular ligament injuries<\/strong> in the fingers are among the most common injuries in sport climbing, ledges should always be \u201cenjoyed\u201d with caution. Depending on how you place your fingers, ledges can really put a strain on your fingers.<\/p>\n\n\n\nCorrect placement<\/strong> reduces the risk of injury. We distinguish between three grip techniques:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n\n- full crimp<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- half crimp<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- open grip<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
The safest but most technically demanding grip is the open grip. Because of the smaller angle, the body needs to be positioned more carefully. This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. This creates a larger angle, which allows you to actively pull on the grip when moving through a wider range of motion (see image). In a full crimp, you also use your thumb, but this position puts a high amount of stress on the annular ligaments<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\nAs far as injury prevention goes, it makes more sense to climb using an open grip<\/strong>. However, climbing with crimped fingers is a part of climbing and is unavoidable on very small edges. You can learn more about preparing your fingers for the stresses of climbing in our article on finger strength<\/a> (currently only available in German).<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"Klettertechnik-Griffe-open-hand-200x200\"](\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-open-hand-200x200-1.jpg\")
open grip<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"Klettertechnik-Griffe-half-crimp-200x200\"](\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-half-crimp-200x200-1.jpg\")
half crimp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"Klettertechnik-Griffe-full-crimp-200x200\"](\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-full-crimp-200x200-1.jpg\")
full crimp<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPockets<\/h3>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.bergfreunde.de\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Fingerloch-225x300.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nSlim fingers<\/strong> tend to have the advantage here because the size<\/strong> of a pocket determines how many fingers you can stuff in there.<\/p>\n\n\n\nBut just as with ledges, there is a high risk of injury<\/strong>, which is why you should pay a lot of attention to how you position your fingers. Pockets with sharp edges place additional stress on your ligaments. The two-finger pocket is the most common type of pocket hold. Which fingers you use is generally not all that important because there\u2019s no difference between the combination of ring and middle finger and an index and middle finger when it comes to muscles. However, because of the anatomical differences in the lengths of the fingers, one of the two options will often feel more comfortable.<\/p>\n\n\n\nSloper<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
These large, smooth holds should be gripped with the entire surface of the hand<\/strong>. These holds are all about friction, and this is dependent on both the pressure you exert and the contact area. Some slopers also have small raised areas that can be held onto like edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\nOne of the most important factors when it comes to slopers is the direction of pull<\/strong> (see article 1). On easier routes<\/strong>, there is usually a foothold directly underneath so that you can \u201cdive\u201d right under the hold (as seen in image 2). More difficult routes<\/strong> will require more technique and strength. It\u2019s often necessary to create counter-pressure using other parts of the body (as in image 1).<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Aufleger-200x200-1.jpg\")
Image 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Aufleger-2-200x200-1.jpg\")
Image 2<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nVolumes<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
These aren\u2019t all that different from slopers<\/strong> and, because of their size, they can also be used for support as in the first image. But if you\u2019re underneath a volume, it can be a bit trickier. They\u2019re easiest to grab hold of if you place your fingertips at the edge of the volume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Volumen-200x200-1.jpg\")
Climbing isn’t just about pulling yourself up. You’ve got to push and support yourself as well.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Volumen-2-200x200-1.jpg\")
The edge of a volume is a great place to stop.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.bergfreunde.de\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/05\/Klettertechnik-Griffe-Henkel-und-Taschen.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nEvery beginner\u2019s<\/strong> favourite hold. Even if they\u2019re few and far between on more difficult routes, unless there\u2019s an overhang.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Even if jugs make it tempting to climb using brute force<\/strong> to pull yourself up, this \u201ctechnique\u201d will just frustrate you in the long term. Pullups won\u2019t get you very far on rock walls and difficult routes. For these, proper climbing technique<\/strong><\/a> is much more important. That\u2019s why you should practice indoors on vertical routes and those with a slight overhang to perfect the basic techniques. When the difficulty increases and the jugs only serve as a spot to rest, good climbing technique is much more helpful than pure strength.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One of the first major hurdles<\/strong> you will encounter are the very small ledges (often called crimps) where only one or two fingertips have space. If you have excellent finger strength<\/strong>, these usually don\u2019t pose a big problem. But as annular ligament injuries<\/strong> in the fingers are among the most common injuries in sport climbing, ledges should always be \u201cenjoyed\u201d with caution. Depending on how you place your fingers, ledges can really put a strain on your fingers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Correct placement<\/strong> reduces the risk of injury. We distinguish between three grip techniques:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n The safest but most technically demanding grip is the open grip. Because of the smaller angle, the body needs to be positioned more carefully. This is why most climbers use either a half crimp or full crimp when climbing. This creates a larger angle, which allows you to actively pull on the grip when moving through a wider range of motion (see image). In a full crimp, you also use your thumb, but this position puts a high amount of stress on the annular ligaments<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As far as injury prevention goes, it makes more sense to climb using an open grip<\/strong>. However, climbing with crimped fingers is a part of climbing and is unavoidable on very small edges. You can learn more about preparing your fingers for the stresses of climbing in our article on finger strength<\/a> (currently only available in German).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Slim fingers<\/strong> tend to have the advantage here because the size<\/strong> of a pocket determines how many fingers you can stuff in there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n But just as with ledges, there is a high risk of injury<\/strong>, which is why you should pay a lot of attention to how you position your fingers. Pockets with sharp edges place additional stress on your ligaments. The two-finger pocket is the most common type of pocket hold. Which fingers you use is generally not all that important because there\u2019s no difference between the combination of ring and middle finger and an index and middle finger when it comes to muscles. However, because of the anatomical differences in the lengths of the fingers, one of the two options will often feel more comfortable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n These large, smooth holds should be gripped with the entire surface of the hand<\/strong>. These holds are all about friction, and this is dependent on both the pressure you exert and the contact area. Some slopers also have small raised areas that can be held onto like edges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n One of the most important factors when it comes to slopers is the direction of pull<\/strong> (see article 1). On easier routes<\/strong>, there is usually a foothold directly underneath so that you can \u201cdive\u201d right under the hold (as seen in image 2). More difficult routes<\/strong> will require more technique and strength. It\u2019s often necessary to create counter-pressure using other parts of the body (as in image 1).<\/p>\n\n\n\n These aren\u2019t all that different from slopers<\/strong> and, because of their size, they can also be used for support as in the first image. But if you\u2019re underneath a volume, it can be a bit trickier. They\u2019re easiest to grab hold of if you place your fingertips at the edge of the volume.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/a>Ledges<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n
Pockets<\/h3>\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\nSloper<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Volumes<\/h3>\n\n\n\n