{"id":126453,"date":"2025-09-10T10:50:39","date_gmt":"2025-09-10T08:50:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bergfreunde.de\/blog\/climbing-the-grossglockner\/"},"modified":"2025-09-10T10:52:56","modified_gmt":"2025-09-10T08:52:56","slug":"climbing-the-grossglockner","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/climbing-the-grossglockner\/","title":{"rendered":"Climbing the Grossglockner: Two Routes \u2013 the Normal Route and the St\u00fcdlgrat"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

As head of the VIVALPIN<\/a> mountain school, I climb the Grossglockner several times a year and in all seasons, alongside my guests. Austria\u2019s highest mountain<\/strong> has a magical appeal. This is not just because of its height, which towers above all surrounding summits, but also because of its dramatic, rugged appearance from all sides. Martin and Sepp Klotz and Mathias Hautzendorfer were the first to reach the summit of the highest mountain in Austria as early as 28 July 1800. Their achievement is all the more remarkable considering that their equipment was rather rudimentary (no crampons<\/a>, no safety gear) and the physical demands of the climb were extremely high (no huts, no marked trails). Today, climbers benefit from three Alpine Club huts and a bivouac box, serving as base camps for the more than 50 possible ascent routes. Among these, the two most popular are the Normal Route and the St\u00fcdlgrat<\/strong>. Both are demanding high-altitude tours that require a considerable amount of mountaineering skill and stamina.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Normal Route from Kals to the Grossglockner<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Normal Route to the Grossglockner Glacier is divided into four different stages, starting at the Lucknerhaus and culminating at the summit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the Lucknerhaus to the St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The journey typically begins at the Lucknerhaus<\/strong>, located in Hohe Tauern National Park at 1,920 metres. From here, the summit is already visible as you ascend a steep forest road to the Luckner H\u00fctte. The trail then continues as an easy, well-marked path leading to the St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte<\/strong>. Most climbers choose to spend the night here, and for a good reason. At 2,802 metres, it offers a comfortable altitude for those not fully acclimatised, while keeping the final stage to the summit manageable at 1,000 metres of elevation gain.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Barrier<\/a>
The tour begins on an increasingly steep forest road \u2013 with the finish line in sight. Photo credits: VIVALPIN<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

An alternative is the Erzherzog-Johann-H\u00fctte<\/strong>, Austria\u2019s highest mountain hut at 3,454 metres. Unfortunately, this very fact could be your undoing, because without proper acclimatisation, the night can be restless and far from restorative.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte\"<\/a>
The St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte is a better place to stay overnight for unacclimatised summit aspirants than the higher Erzherzog-Johann-H\u00fctte. Photo credits: VIVALPIN<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

From the St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte to the Adlersruhe<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

You set off early the next morning from the St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte. By the light of your head torch<\/a>, you navigate the steep terminal moraine of the K\u00f6dnitzkees<\/strong> on a narrow path. Due to climate change, the glacier itself has all but vanished, but the loose ground tells the story of its eventful past. The scree slopes are steep, sometimes icy, and require caution and sure-footedness. Like many glaciers on the Glockner, the K\u00f6dnitzkees is retreating year after year at an ever-increasing rate. At around 3,000 metres, it’s advisable to put on crampons, unless snow conditions are exceptionally good. And while you’re at it, you should also put on your climbing harness<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Summit<\/a>
The summit seen from the ascent to the Adlersruhe (on the right, you can see the mountaineers on the snow). Photo credits: VIVALPIN<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The K\u00f6dnitzkees is relatively flat and mostly free of crevasses. You follow a broad track towards Kampl. If snow levels are still high, you can bypass the first rocks on the left via a steep firn slope. More commonly, you cross the edge crevasse at the lowest point of the rocks and reach the via ferrata (C). With a few breaks and stretches of easy rock terrain (I), you arrive at the Adlersruhe<\/strong>. Apart from the first section, the via ferrata passages are straightforward (A-B)<\/strong>, though bringing a via ferrata set is still recommended. It\u2019s a surreal moment when you step on the hut terrace with crampons, only to find yourself in a cosy dining room moments later. You could almost forget that most of the peaks of the Eastern Alps now lie beneath you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the Adlersruhe to the Kleinglockner<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Equipped with crampons and roped up, you head towards the steep summit. From this point, it\u2019s hard to believe the Normal Route<\/strong> involves \u2018only\u2019 grade II climbing and snow or ice gradients up to 40\u00b0<\/strong>. Yet the path, first discovered in 1800, cleverly exploits the mountain\u2019s natural weaknesses. Snow usually lingers until early August, and a well-trodden path leads to the Glocknerleitl<\/strong>. The Glocknerleitl was once a steep snow gully with a 40\u00b0 incline, leading to a shoulder on the Glockner\u2019s southeast ridge. Due to continuous snowmelt, the snow gully has transformed into a nasty mixture of bare ice, scree and rock.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Snow<\/a>
Snowy trail leading to the nasty Glocknerleitl. Photo credits: VIVALPIN<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Mountain guides from Kals, who lead hundreds of tourists to the summit each summer, have worked to make this tricky section easier with bolts, iron pins and fixed ropes. Still, from mid-summer onwards, this part is difficult and requires solid crampon technique on bare ice and mixed terrain. Once you\u2019ve conquered the Glocknerleitl, you can enjoy an exhilarating climb over firm rock. Safety bars, spaced every 15 metres, guide you to the Kleinglockner. As the difficulty decreases and the terrain flattens, the final stretch to the exposed 3,770-metre summit is within reach.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Snow-covered<\/a>
The snow-covered summit ridge of the Kleinglockner. Photo credits: VIVALPIN<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Via the Glocknerscharte to the Grossglockner<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Depending on the season, the Kleinglockner is either a narrow ridge covered in snow and ice or an even narrower ridge of exposed rock. Traversing it feels like walking a tightrope, balancing over one of the highest points in the Eastern Alps. If you\u2019ve made yourself familiar with the route beforehand, then you\u2019ll know that the short but challenging descent into the Glocknerscharte<\/strong> is up next. A fixed rope and good belaying options will take you down to the saddle, which is only a few metres wide. To your right, the Pallavicinirinne<\/strong> seems to plunge vertically into the depths. It was first climbed on 18 August 1876 by Alfred Graf von Pallavicini. His three mountain guides, Johann Kremser, Georg B\u00e4uerle, and Josef Tribusser, famously had to carve thousands of steps into the 55\u00b0 slope.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Crux<\/a>
The crux just below the summit of the Gro\u00dfglockner. Photo credits: VIVALPIN<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Like the Glocknerleitl, the Pallavicinirinne has suffered from significant glacial retreat and is now rarely attempted in summer. After the saddle, you face the technical crux. Fortunately, the rock is solid and offers excellent grip. If your fitness level allows, then the final metres to the summit cross at 3,798 metres are exhilarating. Here, you also come across the St\u00fcdlgrat<\/strong>, which leads directly from the hut of the same name to the summit. It\u2019s more demanding than the Normal Route and features climbing passages up to upper grade III difficulty. Even more difficult and longer is the Nordwestgrat<\/strong> (IV+), which ascends from the Glocknerwand.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"Grossglockner<\/a>
At the summit: the ascent of the Grossglockner is complete. Photo credits: VIVALPIN<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Descent via the Route Taken by the First Climbers<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Regardless of the ascent route you choose, the Normal Route<\/strong> described above is a good option for the descent<\/strong>. It\u2019s the easiest<\/strong> route<\/strong>, relatively short, and with a refuge hut<\/strong> just 300 metres below the summit. From the Adlersruhe, there are several descent options available.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you still have some energy reserves left, I recommend taking the \u2018Weg der Erstbesteiger\u2019<\/strong> (Path of the First Climbers). It’s hardly any more difficult than the ascent via the K\u00f6dnitzkees, but it’s far more varied and offers magnificent scenery. Heading southeast, you descend over a mix of scree, snow, and ice toward the Hohewartscharte<\/strong> at 3,182 metres. Steel cables and iron pins guide you down the steep flank into the moraine, the remnants of long-melted glaciers. At 2,644 metres, you\u2019ll reach the Salmh\u00fctte<\/strong><\/a>, an excellent place to rest and refuel. Alternatively, you can continue for another hour on well-marked, easy mountain trails to the Glorerh\u00fctte<\/strong><\/a> at 2,642 metres. From there, it\u2019s a final 700-metre descent to the starting point at<\/strong> the <\/strong>Lucknerhaus. <\/strong>Then, you\u2019ll have completed one of the most spectacular high-altitude tours in the Eastern Alps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Requirements for Climbing the Grossglockner<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Climbing the Grossglockner requires:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \n
  1. Sure-footedness<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
  2. Crampon and climbing experience<\/strong> up to grade II. You\u2019ll often be climbing rocky passages with crampons, so confidence in handling such terrain is essential<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  3. Above-average fitness<\/strong> for the 1,000 metres of ascent and 1,900 metres of descent<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    Good to know:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

      \n
    • If you\u2019re climbing with a mountain guide<\/strong>, then sure-footedness, a head for heights and the appropriate fitness level for a 1,000-metre ascent and a 1,900-metre descent are sufficient<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Particularly fit mountaineers<\/strong> can also climb the Grossglockner as a day tour<\/strong> starting from the Lucknerhaus car park. To do this, you need to be fit enough to handle 1,000 metres of ascent and 1,900 metres of descent, with sufficient energy reserves and the technical skills required for rock and ice climbing<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

      Grossglockner Ascent: Key Facts at a Glance<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

      Valley base<\/strong>: Kals am Grossglockner<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Starting point<\/strong>: Lucknerhaus (accessible via toll road, paid parking available)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Base camps<\/strong>: St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte, Erzherzog-Johann-H\u00fctte, Salmh\u00fctte, Glorerh\u00fctte<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Difficulty<\/strong>: Demanding high-altitude alpine tour starting from the St\u00fcdlh\u00fctte: 1,000 metres of elevation gain on the ascent (4 hours) and 1,900 meters on the descent (5 hours)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      As head of the VIVALPIN mountain school, I climb the Grossglockner several times a year and in all seasons, alongside my guests. Austria\u2019s highest mountain has a magical appeal. This is not just because of its height, which towers above all surrounding summits, but also because of its dramatic, rugged appearance from all sides. Martin […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":123,"featured_media":123545,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[216],"tags":[418,417],"post_folder":[],"class_list":["post-126453","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tours-travel-tips","tag-climbing-bouldering","tag-mountaineering"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nClimbing the Grossglockner: Two Routes \u2013 the Normal Route and the St\u00fcdlgrat<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"How do you climb the Grossglockner? \u27a4 What do you need to be prepared? \u27a4 Is it necessary to stay overnight in a hut? \u27a4 Find out here!\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/climbing-the-grossglockner\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Climbing the Grossglockner: Two Routes \u2013 the Normal Route and the St\u00fcdlgrat\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"How do you climb the Grossglockner? 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