{"id":121234,"date":"2025-03-11T14:05:21","date_gmt":"2025-03-11T13:05:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bergfreunde.de\/blog\/atlas-mountains-trekking\/"},"modified":"2025-06-24T16:27:19","modified_gmt":"2025-06-24T14:27:19","slug":"atlas-mountains-trekking","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/atlas-mountains-trekking\/","title":{"rendered":"Atlas Mountains trekking"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

After a flight of 3.5 hours, we\u2019re landing in Marrakech, Morocco, late in the evening. We\u2019re poised to go on our ten-day tent<\/a> trekking trip through the breathtaking Moroccan mountains. More specifically, we\u2019re going hiking in the Atlas Mountains which boast numerous high passes, summits of over 4,000 metres and the highest mountain in North Africa: Jebel Tobkal (4,167 m).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve compiled our trekking programme at home according to our wishes. We used a local agency to book via the online operator platform Evaneos which will collect us from the airport and take us to the hotel. But before we can be chauffeured to the hotel, we have to get through immigration passport control that takes up several hours. When we finally arrive at the hotel, we\u2019re absolutely exhausted and go to bed straight away, looking forward to the next day and the start of our adventure.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"The<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Off on our Atlas Mountain trekking<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

After a relaxed breakfast by the hotel pool, we gather our trekking equipment and spend some more time enjoying the summery temperatures. The last moments of putting our feet up<\/strong> before our tour guide Momo comes to collect us at 2 pm. A minibus takes us on a 1.5-hour journey from Marrakech into the Atlas Mountains with last bits of shopping in very rural villages for gas bottles, vegetables, water and loo paper. Basically everything you need for tent trekking with 5 people and two mules<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The destination and starting point of our trek is the only ski resort in the region, Qukaimeden<\/strong> at 2,600 m. This is where we meet our support team, the two muleteers Mohamed and Darsin with their two white mules. Our luggage and equipment like tents, crockery, food, gas, cooker etc. will be carried by the two mules, meaning we\u2019re travelling nice and light<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our welcome trip in the Atlas Mountains<\/h3>\n\n\n
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\"A<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

After meeting our team, we erect our two tents and have a cup of welcome tea<\/strong>. Tea (with a lot of sugar) as the national drink, tajine for lunch and couscous in the evening are traditional elements of Moroccan life and culture that we\u2019re looking forward to experiencing over the coming days. The sentence \u201cDrink tea, always drink tea\u201d will come up repeatedly on this trip.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

According to the motto \u201cgo high and sleep low\u201d, Tina and I are going on a brief exploratory excursion<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Something you should know before we start: we purposefully decided to go trekking just the two of us<\/strong> so we could incorporate everything we wanted. It\u2019s handy to know that this is not much more expensive<\/strong> than going with a whole group. We also decided to take many breaks for pictures so we can document our Atlas Mountains trekking tour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At great heights (always above 2,000 m) drinking a lot<\/strong> is very important, to get acclimatised as well. Three to four litres are absolutely essential. But this is not something we can always cover with mineral water. Locals drink water right from the river, but we need a water filter<\/strong> to purify the water onsite. We specially bought a new water filter for this (available from Katadyn<\/a>, for example). Water filter tablets<\/strong>, such as Micropur, are therefore a thing of the past.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Sunset<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

In addition to the water filter, we also packed some trekking food and bars<\/strong>, for short breaks in particular. But since our guides always had a big bag of delicious dried dates, figs, nuts and almonds<\/strong>, our bars joined us on our way home again. Our support team was organised perfectly, which is why we would certainly recommend them. They didn\u2019t just take care of us wonderfully but also of their animals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 1: Sun, thunderstorms, green landscapes<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

(Cumulative elevation gain: ascent 850 <\/em>\u2013 descent 1,100, walking duration 8 h) <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the early morning, the sun warmly welcomes us to this new day. Our morning ritual includes taking down our tent, packing up our sleeping bags and rolling up the mats. We\u2019re happy and enjoy our substantial breakfast with a certain \u201cInshallah\u201d<\/strong> (God willing).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Once our luggage is loaded onto the mules, we set off to our first mountain pass<\/strong> with a lightweight backpack and a lot of anticipation. The mules start a little after us but don\u2019t take long to catch us up. We\u2019re impressed<\/strong> by the surefootedness, power and speed with which the two \u201csmall\u201d mules seemingly fly up the mountain on their four hooves. Over the coming days, we\u2019ll keep being amazed at how nimble and clever these two mules are, finding and following their paths.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Our<\/a>
Besides sunshine, Robert also meets rain.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Tizi means \u201cpass\u201d and with the Tizi n\u2019Ouhattar<\/strong>, our Atlas Mountains trekking tour exceeds the 3,000 metre mark for the first time. We then descend again where the Berber village Agounss<\/strong>, with its wide green terraced fields, is located in lonely splendour at the foothills of steep rocks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After our lunch break, reinvigorated, we continue to the last mountain pass for the day. But thunder and lightning<\/strong> catch us just before reaching the pass, and when severe rain and hail<\/strong> also start, we\u2019re forced to descend quickly. Luckily, we don\u2019t have to sleep in our tent tonight! We managed to find modest but dry accommodation. A substantial evening meal and some sun round off the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 2: Tacheddirt Valley<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

(Cumulative elevation gain: ascent 900 \u2013 descent 1,100, walking duration 7 h) <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Tacheddirt<\/a>
The remote village of Tacheddirt.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The weather turned friendly again today. Beaming sun and pleasant temperatures give us hope for the day. Crossing a beautiful valley with steep rocks, we reach the pass. If we were in the Alps, I would say we\u2019re experiencing Foehn wind<\/strong>. Strong winds force us to descend immediately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After a break, we reach the remote valley of Tacheddirt<\/strong> at 2,300 m. The camp site we were aiming for is occupied so without much ado we make our way to a simple hotel<\/strong> on the edge of the village. The nice thing about travelling with a team is that you\u2019re treated to tea and food as soon as you arrive at your destination. The day ends as it started, with a lot of sunshine and a beautiful sunset.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 3: A lot of altitude covered<\/strong> while hiking in Morocco<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

(Cumulative elevation gain: ascent 1,200 \u2013 descent 1,100, walking duration 8 h) <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019re up early and have to use our head torches<\/a><\/strong> for the first 2 hours. The mules don\u2019t start until the sun has come up but today, too, they will overtake us before we get to the mountain pass. The trip starts with a long, steep ascent. We\u2019re going up 1,200 m, which takes us 4.5 hours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Tizzi n\u2019Likmet Pass <\/strong>(3,600 m) has a stunning view of Tacheddirt Valley as well as of the surrounding mountains and many summits of the Atlas Mountains. We can now see our destination in the distance for the first time, Jebel Toubkal<\/strong> at 4,167 m. After a break (dates, nuts and pitta bread with canned fish \u2013 I didn\u2019t know that could be so delicious<\/strong>), we descend into the lovely and remote valley. Roaring streams, green meadows and a lot of time to relax round off the day. Spaghetti in tomato sauce (I love pasta, who doesn\u2019t) are on today\u2019s menu.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"The<\/a>
Bon appetit! There\u2019s certainly no shortage of good food on this trip.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Day 4: To the mountain pass and descent to Amsourzerte<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

(Cumulative elevation gain: ascent 650 \u2013 descent 1,300, walking duration 8 h) <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The next morning, we\u2019re absolutely exhausted and it\u2019s very hard to get going. After some coffee, pitta bread with butter and jam, we\u2019re beginning to regain some strength. Great numbers of mules<\/strong> (big and small mules, some with riders, some with people walking next to them, fully laden and beautifully decorated) are out and about today because the pass is an important supply route for the inhabitants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ascent through the lonely and narrow valley is stunning and we keep following a stream. We continue ascending to Tizi Tougroudadene<\/strong> Pass (3,260 m). From there, we\u2019re descending to Amsourzerte<\/strong> where we\u2019re staying at a hostel with a hot shower. Coincidentally, a traditional wedding is being celebrated in Amsourzerte on our arrival, which is why everything is decorated beautifully with flowers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We relax on the sunny patio with a cup of tea and enjoy some traditional couscous with vegetables<\/strong> in the evening.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 5: Berber breakfast, mountain lakes and sun<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n
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\"The<\/a>
Lac d’Ifni \u2013 a remnant from the Ice Age and the only natural mountain lake in the western High Atlas Mountains.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

(Cumulative elevation gain: ascent 700 \u2013 descent 100, walking duration 5 h) <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve got another long and very varied day of Atlas Mountains trekking tour ahead of us. Today, Jebel Toubkal<\/strong> (4,167 m) and Imouzzer<\/strong> (4,010 m) are coming into view. After around an hour, one of our guides has a surprise<\/strong> for us: he leads us to a local \u201crestaurant\u201d for a traditional Berber breakfast outdoors<\/strong>. Fresh pitta, honey, salt and olive oil are a real treat for us there. It\u2019s very hard to leave this delicious food behind and continue our journey. But our destination is Lac d\u2019Ifni Lake.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The ice-cold Lac d’Ifni<\/strong> (2,500 m) is the only natural mountain lake in the western High Atlas Mountains and a remnant from the Ice Age <\/strong>\u2013 a great backdrop for pictures. Today, the temperature is climbing up to 35 degrees so we\u2019re taking a very long lunch break at the lake to cool down and keep hydrated. Most groups spend the night at the lake but we prefer to camp with fewer people around so we\u2019re continuing our trek into the valley for another hour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To be honest, I imagined today to be a little gentler<\/strong>. I thought a cumulative elevation gain of 600 metres wouldn\u2019t be so tough but the temperatures and hiking in the blazing sun were very challenging.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Challenging temperatures in the Atlas Mountains<\/h3>\n\n\n
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\"Robert\u2019s<\/a>
Travel tip: read stories to each other.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Tomorrow is going to be another long day of our Atlas Mountains trekking tour with very high temperatures<\/strong>. We decide to start at 5 am on the following day because when ascending on a south easterly side of a mountain through a steep, narrow gorge, temperatures can quickly rise to 35 degrees even before noon. This is the best way to circumvent the heat. This means that we\u2019re tucked up in our sleeping bags early with a nice cup of tea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Something I haven\u2019t mentioned yet: every evening, when we\u2019re in our tent, my girlfriend reads me a bedtime story<\/strong> with mountaineering adventures from great heroes of our time. When was the last time someone read<\/strong> you a story? Try it! It\u2019s absolutely lovely and relaxing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Day 6: Toubkal Huts<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

(Cumulative elevation gain: ascent 1200 \u2013 descent 500, walking duration 7 h) <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

As planned, our day starts at 5 o\u2019clock in the morning<\/strong>. We need our head torches to show us the way for the first 1.5 hours. The nice thing about being out and about this early is that it seems like you\u2019re starting the day with the sun. We\u2019re slowly entering the steep gorge that\u2019s exposed in parts and goes all the way up 1,300 m to the sky-high Tizi Ouanamuss<\/strong> (3,664 m). At 3,000 m, the first rays of sun come out to greet us.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"With<\/a>
On the way to the Toubkal Huts and therefore getting closer to Jebel Toubkal with each step.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The path is a challenge for people and animals<\/strong>. The muleteers keep helping their animals across steep, high steps and through narrow passages. Eventually, we reach the pass after several breaks. Things actually worked out much better than expected. A stunning view of several mountains measuring more than 4,000 m is our reward. After enjoying the peace at the top of the mountain, we descend to the highly frequented Toubkal Huts (3,165 m) which will be our base camp for the coming two nights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n