{"id":108060,"date":"2024-02-06T12:53:32","date_gmt":"2024-02-06T11:53:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.bergfreunde.de\/blog\/how-to-wax-skis-properly\/"},"modified":"2024-02-06T12:55:07","modified_gmt":"2024-02-06T11:55:07","slug":"how-to-wax-skis-properly","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alpinetrek.co.uk\/blog\/how-to-wax-skis-properly\/","title":{"rendered":"Instructions: how to wax skis properly"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Hello friends! Welcome to Lisa\u2019s Beauty Palace. Today, I\u2019d like to discuss wellness and cosmetics<\/strong>. But for winter sports equipment! To answer the question \u201cHow do I wax touring skis properly?<\/strong>\u201d (and Alpine skis and snowboards and skating skis and snowblades and \u2026 LET\u2019S GO!!!) OK, OK, enough, let\u2019s get started…<\/p>\n\n

Ski waxing \u2013 requirements and methods<\/h2>\n\n

Your planks need a little bit of TLC every now and then, too. That\u2019s why you should regularly wax your skis<\/strong>. This will not only improve their speed <\/strong>and gliding properties but will also protect the ski base<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n

The most common and long-lasting method is hot waxing<\/strong>, i.e. applying special ski wax<\/a> using an iron. That\u2019s what we want to look at in more detail in this article.<\/p>\n\n

Another popular and, most importantly, simple method is the use of liquid wax or wax sticks<\/strong>. They can quickly and easily be applied to the skis. You just have to polish the wax after a short while. But it doesn\u2019t last quite as long and doesn\u2019t really help with very worn ski bases.<\/p>\n\n

For this reason, the use of liquid wax is more an addition<\/strong> than an actual alternative to classic hot wax. Furthermore, companies such as Swix<\/a>, Holmenkol <\/a>or Toko <\/a>offer numerous other waxing systems, but they\u2019re often designed for specialist applications.<\/p>\n\n

This article is therefore not about perfectly preparing your skis for a race or waxing classic cross-country skis with kick wax. Today, we\u2019ll merely deal with how average tourers or skiers<\/strong> can get the ski base of their skis back in shape and ready for action.<\/p>\n\n

First thing’s first:<\/strong> There isn\u2019t just a single method of how to wax skis. Everyone has his or her own tricks. If you ask five people, they will give you seven different options. What I\u2019m going to explain today is therefore not the be all and end all. It\u2019s my own way of waxing skis. And it\u2019s been tried-and-tested for the many years that I\u2019ve been skiing. Of course, it\u2019s based on the instructions of the wax manufacturers<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n

When is ski waxing necessary?<\/h2>\n\n

That depends on how much and how vigorously you\u2019re using your skis. But also on the snow conditions. <\/strong>In powdery snow, for example, less demand is made on your ski base than on a hard artificial snow slope.<\/p>\n\n

Contact with stones<\/strong> and similar will also put a strain on the ski base, requiring repairs. When the skis don\u2019t \u201crun\u201d properly, at the latest, it\u2019s best to act. It\u2019s even better though not to let it get that far. I wax my Alpine and touring skis every fourth to fifth skiing day<\/strong>, for example, which has really been working for me over the years.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Very<\/a>
At the latest when the ski base looks like this, you should wax it.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

A clear indication is when the ski base feels extremely blunt<\/strong> and is going grey in some places<\/strong>. With black ski bases in particular, it\u2019s easy to see and a clear sign that the ski base is worn and desperately needs to be refreshed. Just imagine extremely dry, cracked skin. By applying moisturising cream, the skin will become smooth again and feel great. It\u2019s the same with ski bases that are waxed.<\/p>\n\n

I\u2019d also recommend waxing your skis after the season<\/strong> and leaving the wax on. That will protect the ski base when storing it over the summer<\/strong> and it won\u2019t dry out.<\/p>\n\n

Ski waxing \u2013 what you need<\/h2>\n\n

Before you get going with ski waxing, make sure you have the required equipment<\/a><\/strong>. So here\u2019s a rough overview of what you need.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Basic<\/a>
Those who want to wax their skis need some basic equipment.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Clamping device for the skis<\/h3>\n\n

When waxing, it\u2019s important that the skis can be secured with the ski base facing up. You can buy different clamping devices <\/a>for this. Alternatively, you can build your own. Mine, for example, consists of two covered timber pieces and a machine vice<\/strong>. You can also use a mobile workbench with clamping jaws, for example, but that\u2019s often a little fiddly.<\/p>\n\n

Elastic bands<\/h3>\n\n

In some ski bindings, the stopper can be folded up and locked by turning and shifting the binding. If that doesn\u2019t work, the ski brakes have to be locked in a different way so they don\u2019t get in the way later. I found that strong elastic bands<\/strong> work best. You can buy them as an accessory or alternatively, use classic rubber rings from preserving jars.<\/p>\n\n

Iron<\/h3>\n\n

There are special waxing irons<\/strong> for ski waxing. Not only do they have the advantage that the temperature can be set precisely but they also keep the temperature consistent<\/strong>. Plus, the iron\u2019s sole plate is rectangular and doesn\u2019t have a tip. Grooves in the sole plate also ensure that the wax is distributed perfectly.<\/p>\n\n

There\u2019s an alternative here, too. It\u2019s known as a dry iron<\/strong>. Dry irons are predecessors to steam irons and don\u2019t have holes in the sole plate.<\/p>\n\n

If your grandma still has one of those, you can use it for ski waxing. But it can\u2019t be used for the laundry again afterwards. Disadvantage: conventional irons don\u2019t maintain their temperature very well and you first have to find out what temperature two dots or \u201ccotton\u201d actually stands for.<\/p>\n\n

Scraper<\/h3>\n\n

Scrapers are generally made of plastic and not very expensive. Trying to find alternatives is not worth it. But make sure when buying a scraper that it\u2019s wider than the widest part of your skis.<\/p>\n\n

Ski base brush<\/h3>\n\n

This kind of brush is available in all sorts of materials that all have pros and cons or different areas of application. A quality nylon brush<\/strong> is sufficient for our work. Trying to find an alternative is not worth it either for this. Ski base brushes aren\u2019t expensive and come with the required structure and dimensions.<\/p>\n\n

Ski wax\/glide wax<\/h3>\n\n

Hot wax for skis is available in different versions. Depending on temperature and snow characteristics<\/strong>, it\u2019s worth using different types of wax. But this topic is quite complex so there will be a separate article about this here soon.<\/p>\n\n

In general, it can be said that amateur athletes can\u2019t really go wrong with quality all-round wax<\/strong>. As long as the conditions aren\u2019t extreme (e.g. wet snow or extremely low temperatures etc.), universal wax will do a good job.<\/p>\n\n

In our example, we\u2019re using World Cup High Performance Universal – Hot wax<\/a> by Toko. Natural Skiwax Bar<\/a><\/strong> by Holmenkol.<\/p>\n\n

Accessories for touching up ski bases<\/h2>\n\n

Repair sticks for ski base damage<\/h3>\n\n

Making contact with a stone or similar often leaves ugly scratches in the ski base<\/strong>. Luckily, special repair sticks<\/strong> exist that can be used to touch up damage.<\/p>\n\n

A candle as well as a lighter or matches<\/h3>\n\n

Any candle that burns well and stays standing by itself. Anything can be used from a grave candle to an old Advent candle, whatever is at hand.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Accessories<\/a>
Your ski base will be much improved with this repair kit<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Equipment making ski waxing easier (optional)<\/h2>\n\n

One or two cloths<\/h3>\n\n

Use what you\u2019ve got at hand: from an old tea towel to a T-shirt you no longer use. The main thing is that they\u2019re clean.<\/p>\n\n

Hand brush<\/h3>\n\n

You don\u2019t need anything special. A conventional hand brush<\/strong> is sufficient. But again, it has to be clean. <\/strong>. So you might want to get one specially for waxing.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Practical<\/a>
Wax remover, brush and cloth are handy accessories for waxing<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Ski base cleaner (optional)<\/h3>\n\n

Ski base cleaner is a cleaning liquid<\/strong> that has been specifically designed for ski bases. It\u2019s used to remove residual wax or adhesive from climbing skins<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n

A grooved pin (generally only for cross-country skis)<\/h3>\n\n

If your skis have a central groove, you\u2019ll need a grooved pin to remove excess wax from the groove after waxing.<\/p>\n\n

Preparing your skis for waxing<\/h2>\n\n

Dry and warm…<\/h3>\n\n

Before you start waxing your skis, you have to make some preparations. It\u2019s really important that your skis are clean and completely dry<\/strong>. Also bear in mind: the warmer the skis, the more easily the wax can penetrate the ski base or the quicker the entire process will be. Of course, the ski base is heated by the iron above all. But if the skis have a relatively high basic temperature<\/strong> to begin with, it\u2019ll really help.<\/p>\n\n

Locking and clamping in position…<\/h3>\n\n

Once your skis are dry, you can start. First lock the ski brake so it\u2019s folded and not in the way during the next steps. As mentioned above, the stoppers can be locked in position in some touring bindings. If that doesn\u2019t work, simply use an elastic band and tie the ski brake<\/strong> up with it.<\/p>\n\n

After that, secure one ski in the clamping device<\/strong>. If you\u2019ve designed this contraption yourself, you have to make sure that the clamping mechanism damages neither the skis nor the binding. Plus, the skis have to be secured in way that the device doesn\u2019t impair the next steps.<\/p>\n\n

\n
\"locking-ski-brake-1\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"locking-ski-brake-2\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"locking-ski-brake-3\"<\/a><\/figure>\n
Locking the brake in the up-position<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

Scrubbing and cleaning…<\/h3>\n\n

After you\u2019ve stored your skis for a while or following trips when it\u2019s thawing or in unfavourable conditions, your skis and skis bases are often dirty<\/strong>. Make sure you thoroughly remove all dirt with a clean cloth before waxing. Old touring skins also leave residual adhesive on the ski base which needs to be removed just like residual wax. You can either use a brush or appropriate wax remover\/cleaner.<\/p>\n\n

Checking and touching up the ski base<\/h2>\n\n

Have a close look at the ski base. If you spot any scratches, tears or holes<\/strong>, it\u2019s good to touch them up. This is how:<\/p>\n\n

First, take a good look at the scratch. If the edges of the damaged area are very ragged<\/strong> and actual fragments are coming off the ski base, they must be removed. Either use your scraper or a conventional craft<\/a> knife<\/strong>. It helps for the ski base to be heated a little. I always choose a low temperature on the waxing iron and briefly place it in the area that needs touching up.<\/p>\n\n

To mend ski bases, there are special repair sticks<\/strong>. They\u2019re either black (for black ski bases) or white\/transparent for all other ski bases. When you light these sticks, the material drips down and you can apply it to the damaged area drop by drop.<\/p>\n\n

In my experience, these sticks don\u2019t burn consistently but go out every now and then. Those who have to fiddle with matches <\/strong>every time may get annoyed quite quickly. A small candle may be more suitable because it lets you light the stick repeatedly without much fuss.<\/p>\n\n

But you should only apply the material in the area<\/strong> where it\u2019s really needed. You might want to put a small protective board or something similar close to the damaged area on the ski to help you.<\/p>\n\n

Just light the repair stick above that area, wait for the first drops<\/strong> and you\u2019re good to go. When applying the repair material, the motto is to use more<\/strong> if in doubt.<\/p>\n\n

That\u2019s because the material retracts a little when it gets cold. Once sufficient material has been applied, it has to cool down and harden<\/strong>. The duration depends on the material quantity but you should allow 10 to 15 minutes<\/strong>. In the meantime, you might as well put the ski you just worked on aside and treat the other one.<\/p>\n\n

Once the material has cooled down and hardened, excess has to be removed. Some companies recommend a metal scraper<\/strong> but practice has shown that a standard plastic blade<\/strong> also does the trick.<\/p>\n\n

Depending on the thickness of the material you\u2019ve applied, you may have to go over the particular area several times<\/strong>. You can also carefully cut off thicker residual material with the blade of the craft knife. But please be careful. If you\u2019re too vicious with the scraper, you\u2019ll often tear open the area you just mended. But using only the scraper, you won\u2019t be able to get the ski base flush again. So you\u2019ll need to do some re-work.<\/p>\n\n

For that, you\u2019ll either need a ski base file or fine sand paper. But be careful to only treat the area you wanted to mend rather than sanding down the entire ski. Afterwards, give the affected area a good going over with the ski base brush <\/strong>to restore the structure.<\/p>\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"ski<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"ski<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n
Repair of the ski base in six steps<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n

How to wax skis<\/h2>\n\n

But now to the actual topic: waxing. There are several steps so let\u2019s go…<\/p>\n\n

The right processing temperature…<\/h3>\n\n

Before you can get started, select the wax that\u2019s appropriate for your purposes. We\u2019re using all-round wax<\/strong> in our example which is suitable for a wide range of uses.<\/p>\n\n

Good to know:<\/strong> each wax has a different processing temperature<\/strong>. It\u2019s usually specified on the packaging or the enclosed instructions. So set your iron to the right temperature and wait for it to be reached. In our case, it\u2019s 130 \u00b0C.<\/p>\n\n

For all those who dug up grandma\u2019s old iron, it means about \u201ctwo dots\u201d or the \u201csilk\u201d setting. As a general rule, the temperature will be much too high if the wax starts to smoke and smell on contact with the iron. Turn it down to a colder setting and wait for the correct temperature to be reached.<\/p>\n\n

\n
\"iron-temperature-celsius\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"ski-wax-processing-temperature\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"iron-temperature-classic\"<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

Applying the wax…<\/h3>\n\n

When the iron has reached the required temperature, hold the ski wax on the iron\u2019s hot sole plate<\/strong>, let it melt and drip it along the length of the running surface of the ski. Depending on the width of the ski, you may wish to drip the wax in a wavy line. <\/strong>With particularly narrow models, it\u2019s enough to drip a relatively straight line from one end to the other.<\/p>\n\n

Make sure you don\u2019t apply too much wax<\/strong>. It\u2019ll just cause problems when you\u2019re trying to work it in evenly and you\u2019re wasting wax unnecessarily.<\/p>\n\n

Once you\u2019ve dripped the wax on the ski from one end to the other<\/strong>, you can put the piece of wax to the side. Now distribute the wax on the ski evenly. Start at one end of the ski and work your way to the other end by slowly moving the iron back and forth<\/strong>. Please note the following:<\/p>\n\n